Does anyone here own one? I am doing a course that involves building, at a guess because there are multiple stages, around 100 small models. 5mm wide timbers is very common and the the sizing is vital. It seems the Jim Byrne machine is the gold standard for model making but they are in America so no chance of a look before buying. I'd like some feedback if anyone has one/has used one/has heard much from a mate that owns one. Any input appreciated. Thanks
Jim Byrne table saw
- Thread starter Harry581010
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Ttrees
Iroko loco!
No RK and a 60hz motor by the looks of it = no good full stop, never mind the postage/customs.
Proxxon or something else might be worth looking into.
All these wee saws are a bit dodgy being so close to the blade, i.e it doesn't make life easy for
one who wishes to go by the H&S advice/or regs in industry, by using 450mm push sticks.
and something so light would need be clamped or bolted down, which seems like a bit too much
work to be done to a new machine.
I'm going to be contradictory with my advice, which is not to follow advice from any Yankee's
as the figures speak for themselves, seemingly the sawstop machines are becoming the norm with the antics they get up to.
Bottom line, if you're getting advice from someone with a Sawstop...
then you'd better get one too.
First to start off with is Roy Sutton, and then some merican productions after that,
Although you should be looking at Steve Maskery's advice here or TWH2 to ensure Roy's stuff is up to date, or other little things which may catch you out,
Best to ask UK woodworkers if unsure.
Roy Sutton
American production! with Kelly Mehler
American production which goes through a lot of safety, though citation needed, as with all non HSE stuff, there is some stuff there which is worth a watch.
Gwinnett woodworkers safety tips video
and another fella who visits the group, Ted Baldwin, (who's videos I must watch again)
to see if as safe as possible.
Always look for the same thing done in the UK, as folks who live this side of the ocean
will be more trustworthy (from experienced hands that is)
as they would get chastised by their fellow craftsmen.
Those same fellow craftsmen who may not bother with the constant crusade trying to get the rest of the world to see some sense in regards to keeping ones digits.
Some Steve for a base line, even if you may read some negative comments regarding his suva guard (which is fair enough if you ask me)
Nevertheless, Steve is actually willing to try and teach, show things with clarity,
as many of the folks who condemn his publications never seem to offer a decent alternative
which actually has substance, i.e thorough enough to cover/address everything,
and not just a catch all sentence which takes little effort, and doesn't really answer anything.
Good luck, and ps, I do hope you have a method of surfacing your timber beforehand,
i.e hand plane or by machine.
Tom
Proxxon or something else might be worth looking into.
All these wee saws are a bit dodgy being so close to the blade, i.e it doesn't make life easy for
one who wishes to go by the H&S advice/or regs in industry, by using 450mm push sticks.
and something so light would need be clamped or bolted down, which seems like a bit too much
work to be done to a new machine.
I'm going to be contradictory with my advice, which is not to follow advice from any Yankee's
as the figures speak for themselves, seemingly the sawstop machines are becoming the norm with the antics they get up to.
Bottom line, if you're getting advice from someone with a Sawstop...
then you'd better get one too.
First to start off with is Roy Sutton, and then some merican productions after that,
Although you should be looking at Steve Maskery's advice here or TWH2 to ensure Roy's stuff is up to date, or other little things which may catch you out,
Best to ask UK woodworkers if unsure.
Roy Sutton
American production! with Kelly Mehler
American production which goes through a lot of safety, though citation needed, as with all non HSE stuff, there is some stuff there which is worth a watch.
Gwinnett woodworkers safety tips video
and another fella who visits the group, Ted Baldwin, (who's videos I must watch again)
to see if as safe as possible.
Always look for the same thing done in the UK, as folks who live this side of the ocean
will be more trustworthy (from experienced hands that is)
as they would get chastised by their fellow craftsmen.
Those same fellow craftsmen who may not bother with the constant crusade trying to get the rest of the world to see some sense in regards to keeping ones digits.
Some Steve for a base line, even if you may read some negative comments regarding his suva guard (which is fair enough if you ask me)
Nevertheless, Steve is actually willing to try and teach, show things with clarity,
as many of the folks who condemn his publications never seem to offer a decent alternative
which actually has substance, i.e thorough enough to cover/address everything,
and not just a catch all sentence which takes little effort, and doesn't really answer anything.
Good luck, and ps, I do hope you have a method of surfacing your timber beforehand,
i.e hand plane or by machine.
Tom
Last edited:
I bought one last year.
Design and construction generally good but I did have to re-machine the arbor and replace the chinese bearings which had an unacceptable amount of radial run-out. I also had to sleeve the trunnion bearing as there was too much play there - tightening the clamp would cause the raising mechanism to shift by about 0.5mm!
The raising mechanism design is only viable with very close tolerances - something my particular saw did not have. I was able to rectify all the problems as I have the equipment but it did take the shine off somewhat - more so that Byrnes did not respond to my email listing the problems although it seems that their email has some problems so they may not have received it. The use of el cheapo bearings for the arbor seems at odds with what he is trying to do.
The model ship forums are full of praise for the saw - one of the reasons I decided to buy one but my experience was different and I suspect that the inaccuracies I outlined may be present on other saws but just not noticed!
Having rectified the problems, the saw works well and will certainly cut accurate strips. Pencils with rubber tips and even smaller special pushing sticks are in order to avoid getting your fingers in the way.
