jewellery box, mitre suggestions

[Lark]

hi

i have not glued it together yet (want to varnish inside before glue up) its held by elastic bands for dry fit, do have band clamps for glue up

the 45's when held together with some elastic bands there seems to be tiny gaps down the corners(looking from a side view) i don't know if this will get better when its glued and sanded. i thought i would ask before varnishing the inside and then gluing......

is there anything to do or try before gluing it up

(only cut not varnished)wood is beach and a groove cut 1cm up where a veneered wenge bottom(done and varnished)

 

[Ian]

Try your band clamp to see if it pulls the joints together - if not the theres a good chance they are not at 45 degrees.

How did you cut them? best to true the angles up on a disc sander if you have one.

You need to have clean 45's if you want tight joints.

Cheers

Ian

 

[woodbloke]

The problem arises because you've got eight 45deg joints to pull together, a slight discrepancy in any one (or even all of them) will cause gaps. Long mitres as you might find in a box are very difficult to get spot on without having gaps somewhere. I'd shoot them in on 45deg shute (of which I just happen to have) but it depends on getting both long edges dead parallel as you'll need to switch them round to do each end. Whichever way you do it, it's not easy - Rob

 

[Lark]

im diy hobbyist
i used my maktia slide mitre saw.... i did cut them flat down rather then the parts being upright if u know what i mean ( _ <--like that not l )
i think i got it 45 but maybe i cut them to fast or cutting them the other way... i did do some mdf scraps seems to have worked but i only tested 2 bits not 4
i will get around to testing band clamp but garage is not heated
i only have hand power sanders

as i have the Bosch table saw with the funny t-slots the mitre fence thing is crap so i never use it for that....

I'd shoot them in on 45deg shute... does that mean hand plane... only have a veritas block plane.. still waiting on getting last sharpening stone as only have up-to 1000gt

 

[Chems]

Shooting is one of these:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/shoo ... 22536.html

Though you'd need the ones that Rob makes that look like this:

One of the best ways to do a decent long mitre is with a 45degree router bit. Or a mitre lock bit. I avoid mitres like the plague, I've only ever got good ones off the table saw after a lot of setting up.

See mitre lock here:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/oak- ... tre%20lock

 

[Lark]

i like the lock some point down the line i try that but not for a while lol.....


with the jig i guess your restricted to smaller bits like picture frames as the height.. say 8cm high sides

 

[Chems]

I think your only restricted by how big or small you make them. The one paul made that look likes like a slope would probably do your box.

If you have a table saw why not do a crosscut sled, they don't take long to do and are as accurate as what ever 45 you use to mark it out.

 

[Lark]

i had thought about making one.... and for the future that's my best option.....

will i need 2 though one at 45 raising it up bit by bit to make the cut line and one at stright for every thing at 90 cuts

 

[Chems]

Well you can make lots of different ones. If you make a straight 90 degree one, you can then tilt your TS blade to 45 degree and do long mitres accurately because the crosscut sled should be riding with out an wiggle if youve made it well.

The second type is exactly the same but instead of having a 90 degree fence its has 2 45 degree faces.

 

[Lark]

i think i would try the top one and have both 90 and 45.. saves on having 2 of them for now at least anyway

 

[Lark]

i have cut them again there bit gaps still... but with some finger pressure on a corner they go together would i be better off with this
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-mi ... prod32231/ (shame no free shipping on 2 of them)
and glue 2 side at a time

also my bottom to the box is made and varnished and will now need few mm cut off will that cut on or do i have to make another

 

[Chems]

If they aren't closing without pressure its unlikely that when all 4 sides are glued up you will get a perfect square box with no gaps. Even if you do manage to use clamps to push the joint together the stress will eventually break the joint.

Theres nothing to stop you trimming the varnished base to make it smaller as the exposed edges will be inside the rebate.

 

[Lark]

Thanks. Silly thing lol. I did same cut on mdf scrap box fits good I think.

Othere problem is down the line I waned to make home speakers back top sides and bottom 45 front not. With veneered oak to hide edges if I can't do this easy that sure to be harder

 

[knappers]

I your mdf joints fit okay, chances are your problem is that your timber isn't truly flat.

Si

 

[Lark]

I did mill them a long time ago maybe that's why. I never even thought about that.
.................................................................
checked there not perfectly flat one of 2 bits but not far out... but then nor are the joints so maybe it is just down to that....
guess just mill another one some time and try again

 

[woodbloke]

I your mdf joints fit okay, chances are your problem is that your timber isn't truly flat.

Si

That, of course, is the other thing to bear in mind...the timber has got to be dead flat with no twist or 'wind' in it - Rob

 

[squib]

One method of clamping 4 sided mitred boxes is to lay all the pieces, inside face down, inline and touching at the tips on the bench then run wide good quality masking tape along the pieces,turn over apply glue into the joints 'fold ' up and tape the final joint, sorry if this is not clear for a really easy thing to do it seems hard to explain.I have used this and it is surprising how tight the mitres close up right out on the corners.A dry run is a must to, see how good it is, but then you really need to renew the tape as it stretches.

 

[Lark]

thanks i have seen that done as well just forgot about it