Jewelery box

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devonwoody":3p89df4x said:
Paultnl. I am going to do a trial run with a piece of silk, the painter told me it should not run, the paint is not watercolour.

The box is still progressing, I did an overall sanding with 80 grit whilst the project was still in one piece and then commenced the process of removing the lid with a Japanese type saw, and cleaned up with a block plane as per pictures.

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Some problems getting a good line of lid to carcass, my hands are not so steady these days so I must have wandered a bit, however I am satisfied with the outcome.


Getting prepared for the drawer front.


And going to look for some hinges Friday.

https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/ind ... ic=16248.0 might offer comfort on the silk gluing.

For hinges, if you cant find any locally, then Isaac Lord had some nice solid brass butt hinges in small sizes. http://www.isaaclord.co.uk/productDetai ... arentCat=5 part number 20440, and they do another which is not on the website 20140 which is a bit narrower. They need polishing though- they are unfinished when you get them, and you will need some screws.
 
Just thinking aloud about the silk... it could look quite different if all stuck down smooth, and maybe would not be as nice as it looks at present. I think I would try cutting a piece of thick card very slightly smaller than the inside of the drawer. The silk needs to be an inch or so bigger than the card all round. Wrap the silk around it, gluing it onto the back of the card only, stretching it taut. Mitre the corners so it doesn't bunch up thick. Maybe consider putting a thin layer of something soft between the silk and the card - dressmakers and tailors use various sorts of linings inside things like jacket lapels to add a bit of bulk so maybe your friend would have some. Then when the silk is nicely stretched over the card and the glue has dried, glue the back of the card+silk assembly with dabs of glue in the corners and press it down into the drawers.

Disclaimer - this is just my rambling not something I have done - so do try it out on offcuts first - but I think it's a trad method for baize linings in things like mathematical instrument cases.
 
Thanks Andy, your comments are very valid and another reason perhaps why this project is not rushing along.

Actually the design is not really egonomical (or whatever the word should be) nearly 50%of the space of the box is area unusable for its purpose.
 
Progressing well.

The drawer front was cut to size on the tablesaw and then put on the router table to round over its edges. Titebond and also dabs of superglue are used to attach the front to the drawer carcass, the stripes are also aligned to match. (superglue is added to get an immediate grab to avoid any slippage whilst piece is awaiting a set plus some masking tape instead of clamps)

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Front drawer now fitted.
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So the next step is hinging of the lid, I have obtained a reasonable quality butt hinge in brass from a local old fashioned hardware shop (very few left) and I also have a length of piano hinge.

In a quandary, I would like to fit the piano hinge to the rear outside (because that's easy, just clamp the lid and box together and slap on the piano hinge to the outside faces), but I will read up again how to fit internal hinges and perhaps I will get a good line up this time after many years of trying. :oops:
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any links or advice how you fit but hinges are welcome.
 

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DW The Woodwhisper does a nice video on YouTube, David Barron also has a YouTube channel (although David is using it to sell his marking gauge). To get the positioning correct you could make up a 'memory type stick' and measure from the edge of the box/lid. As I too have had problems in the past fitting hinges, any WIP pictures would be a big help as I now avoid hinge fitting like the plague.

HTH

Baldhead
 
There were some very useful tips I learnt yesterday, and a good one for me was to use a clean shoe brush to shine the wax polish on a finished box. Put the hinge on the lid first because you do not have the additional weight to manoeuvre when setting things up, a marking gauge using a block of wood with a steel sharpened screwhead set to the depth of the hinge. Ask Baldhead to see his video.
 
The box is looking great.

From my experience messing about with material in the past I agree with what Andy said about wrapping the silk around card to line the drawers.

I don't know if it would work with your box, but another potential use for the silk would be to make a cushion insert for an area of a drawer. These can be used like pin cushions to store earrings neatly in their pairs. Although silk might be a bit too delicate, I'm not sure.
 
Thanks all for your thoughts, it was too hot in the shed for me again today, and I had been celebrating a very advanced birthday. :wink:
 
Pleased I could help with the video DW, Paul makes fitting hinges so simple, I've tried and it never quite works for me, but I'll keep trying because one day...........

BH
 
Baldhead":2nqourpk said:
Pleased I could help with the video DW, Paul makes fitting hinges so simple, I've tried and it never quite works for me, but I'll keep trying because one day...........

BH


Its a push over when the lids are larger than the carcass. :wink:
 
I really like the WIP threads with pictures. May I ask a general question about small boxes. How do we attach the hinges if the sides of the box are thin, say, only quarter inch thick ? Where do people source small hinges and screws/pins ? The boxes I'd like to make are not going to be decorative ones like jewelry boxes so nothing fancy is required - just small. Thanks, Martin
 
If you must have a hinge for that type of box a piano hinge cut to length and fitted to the outside of carcass and lid works, or two butt hinges but they are usually heavier.

I did pick up a butt type hinge the other day less than 1mm thick and some people slot them into the thickness of timber but the lifetime use would be quite short imo.
 
Well those butt hinges did not work for me again even reading all those useful instructions sent me by members. I tried every which way to get the lid to sit square and nicely on the carcass. I even tried this;

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So I reverted to this.

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The lid fits OK but I need to get some more screws that fit.

BTW the butt hinges (I got eight sets from EDavies Securit brand but the screws are no longer brass and they came with Phillips type brass plated screws which do not fit the hinge very well) so off to our local screw shop to get some before they no longer stock traditional brass screws and use this metric Phillips stuff.

Knobs are hopefully also coming today from forum member Dave62m so I should post again shortly.
 

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Hi Woody

I have loads of small brass screws let me know the size and number you want and I will send them to you FOC

Pete
 
Racers":345ab48y said:
Hi Woody

I have loads of small brass screws let me know the size and number you want and I will send them to you FOC

Pete

Thanks Pete, I got a box of no. 2 & 4 half inch this morning but I had to visit two places plus a six foot length of piano hinge. So now I am set up.

Thinking I might inlay the piano hinges into the box above later, so still plenty to do on this first box.
 
Still working on this one.

Dave62m has kindly made me some drawer knobs as per picture below and he told me he enjoyed making them and is happy to make more again in the future, so you never know I might be lucky and get more great grand children and need more in the future.
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Here is an interesting picture a hinged cupboard door (but could be a box if laid on its back) but look how the hinge is fitted (and it works perfectly) it is sunken in to double the thickness of the hinge and on the other surface it lies flush.

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So what are the downside of doing this to my boxes?
 

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