Jammed internal stopcock

[RogerS]

Just got back from being away overnight and trying to undo the internal stopcock which is VERY VERY stiff. As in, it hurts my hand to try and undo it.

So before I resort to putting a spanner over the end for extra torque, snapping off the shaft and giving myself untold problems (as in the mains external stopcock is about a mile away and I'd also need to find the stopcock long thing that fits it), is there anything else I can try? Oil? WD40? Undo the gland and hope I can get some grease in before I flood the place?

TIA

 

[carlb40]

I have never had much luck with seized stopcocks/ gate valves. I normally replace them or add a 2nd further up the line and leave the existing one alone.

 

[RogerS]

Mmm....I was afraid of that.

 

[Zeddedhed]

Heat?

 

[themackay]

I have never had much luck with seized stopcocks/ gate valves. I normally replace them or add a 2nd further up the line and leave the existing one alone.

I had the same problem years ago did the above.

 

[Ghengis]

Slacken the gland nut 1st, a small nut at the base of the stem, they sometimes tighten up as you close off the tap, wd40 1st

 

[Woodchips2]

I'd try spraying with WD40 or penetrating oil and leaving for half an hour, then support the valve with grips and gently try working the handle back and fore. I'd have a quick fit stop end handy just in case the valve shears off.

I try and remember to turn the stop valves on and off once a month when I put caustic soda down the drains.

Best of luck.

Regards Keith

 

[Lons]

All too common problem Rogerand as said usually end up replacing or adding additional. Recently did the same for my sons.

greese usually is a waste of time as it's due to calcium build up and anyway you wouldn't wish to get greese into your drinking water supply.

Sometimes loosening the gland nut slightly can ease the pressure and allow you to carefully work the shaft back and forth to release it then tighten up again but the issue will repeat itself in the future if you don't change the valve.

I work the valves in my own house regularly to try to stop it happening, especially the hot valve.

Bob

 

[Flynnwood]

A plumber can freeze the pipe and fit one of these further up the line in about 20 minutes.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-v ... 15mm/21289

 

[Lons]

A plumber can freeze the pipe and fit one of these further up the line in about 20 minutes.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-v ... 15mm/21289

Or... you can do it yourself almost as quickly and much cheaper if you buy a freeze spray kit as well.

 

[Harbo]

I had a problem a few yrs ago when we had an underfloor leak - the stopcock would not close off fully - what made it worse was that the external mains stopcock was jammed too! Had to call out the water board who ended up digging up the foot way very late at night to replace that.
Plumber cured leak and replaced stop **** which I now turn fairly regularly.
Water board fitted meter which saved us a tremendous amount as our house is highly rated.

Rod

 

[RogerS]

Trouble is I have no room further up the line without ripping a wall out

 

[RogerS]

A plumber can freeze the pipe and fit one of these further up the line in about 20 minutes.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-v ... 15mm/21289

Or... you can do it yourself almost as quickly and much cheaper if you buy a freeze spray kit as well.

But not on 22mm plastic pipe ! I'm OK here as it's metal.

 

[Graham Orm]

Use grips on the stem rather than turning the tap head. When you can, close it and fit a new one further upline.

Tip: When opening a stop **** to leave indefinitely in the on position, turn until it stops then turn it back a quarter turn. This will stop it seizing in the open position.

 

[Graham Orm]

Looks like this is already a replacement tap, with the remains of one below the drain ****. It looks a recent tap and should be fine with a spanner on the tap head. However, get some large grips on the tap body so that it can't twist and rip off the pipe.

Once you get it moving keep working it an applying WD40. If you mess about with the gland nut you'll end up with a drip.

 

[AndyT]

It's no use to you now, but good advice to prevent this happening in future use is to open the stop tap fully then turn it back a quarter of a turn. They are much less likely to stick if not left at the end of their travel.

 

[Graham Orm]

It's no use to you now, but good advice to prevent this happening in future use is to open the stop tap fully then turn it back a quarter of a turn. They are much less likely to stick if not left at the end of their travel.

Keep up Andy.

 

[AndyT]

It's no use to you now, but good advice to prevent this happening in future use is to open the stop tap fully then turn it back a quarter of a turn. They are much less likely to stick if not left at the end of their travel.

Keep up Andy.

Oops

Great minds think alike!

(Greater ones read carefully...)

 

[Graham Orm]

Oops

Great minds think alike!

(Greater ones read carefully...)

:wink:

 

[RogerS]

Thanks Grayorm..you are right. It is a replacement.

Subsequent research suggests that although it did turn off, it didn't actually turn off the water. So I'm not sure where to go next