ISO Flat toothed saw blade for tenons

[Mr. Baxter]

Hello! ISO a flat toothed saw blade and thick kerf to make tenons. My current saw blade is 315 mm, and arbor is 30mm.

To give you perspective my 315mm blade gives a max cut height of approx. 4-5 inches( need to measure). A 150 mm blade sits about 1/2" below the table at max height.

My ideal blade would be 300mm +, 6-8mm kerf, with 30mm arbor, and a flat top tooth to keep tenons square.
Anyone know of anything like that? I found a few but they were in the 200€ and up range.


Thanks

 

[Mr. Baxter]

I forgot to add that I live in Germany, dont have a router or router table. I have searched the forums for ftg saw blade posts, but most are looking for smaller diameter blades. Would like to spend less than 100€. Websites I find are either unclear about product they are selling or are 180€ and up

 

[MattRoberts]

Hi, have you had a look the grooving blades here? http://bivenmachinerysales.co.uk/index. ... =Grooving+

 

[Mr. Baxter]

I have seen those, they would be perfect but the diameter of 150mm is to small. I need a diameter in the 300mm range.

 

[MattRoberts]

What saw do you have? I'm surprised that a 150mm blade doesn't even poke through the throat?!

 

[Myfordman]

Talk to cutting solutions. Doug will sort you out if anyone can.
Look first at your diameters and protrusions quoted in your post as they must be wrong.

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

I'm assuming you want to cut tenons with the timber held vertically in some sort of jig, so the saw blade cuts the tenon cheek? You want a wide kerf blade so it removes all the material in one pass? My advice is, don't. That is potentially an awful lot of material to remove in what is essentially a deep rip cut. I cannot imagine the show side of the tenon shoulder would be much good either. The tooling you are looking at is likely for spindle moulders or tenoners and shouldn't be reapropriated for use in a table saw. I think what you want to do is potentially dangerous. There are many other ways to cut tenons that are less worrying and doable without using inappropriate tooling or machines.

Mike.

 

[MattRoberts]

Woodbrains does have a point. The wider the kerf, the greater the chance of tear out or worse.

I have used a 6mm grooving blade in my saw successfully, however I made 1000% sure that it cleared the throat with room to spare at all blade heights, as well as ensuring that I take multiple shallow passes on the work piece to avoid too much load and reduce tear out.

However, if you're looking to make tenons, you can achieve these with any kerf blade? You just need to make one cut for the cheek, and one for the shoulder.

Isn't it better to just get a normal kerf flat tooth blade, rather than a 5-6mm kerf one?

 

[Mr. Baxter]

I have sent an email to cutting solutions. Still waiting to hear back from them.

I'm getting the idea from this.
http://www.infinitytools.com/sawing/tab ... -top-blade

Which doesn't seem to dangerous at all.

Yes, any flat toothed blade would be nice. It doesn't necessarily have to be in the 6mm kerf width.
It would just be ideal to have a thicker kerf.

 

[Mr. Baxter]

http://m.ebay.de/itm/Holzmann-TKS-315S- ... nav=SEARCH

My saw is similar to this one. But not the same

 

[wallace]

Why not take your blade to a saw doctor and ask them to grind it flat

 

[MattRoberts]

I have sent an email to cutting solutions. Still waiting to hear back from them.

I'm getting the idea from this.
http://www.infinitytools.com/sawing/tab ... -top-blade

Which doesn't seem to dangerous at all.

Yes, any flat toothed blade would be nice. It doesn't necessarily have to be in the 6mm kerf width.
It would just be ideal to have a thicker kerf.

Ok, so my saw blade is similar to that. Be under no illusions, you won't get those crisp clean finger joints (or any clean cuts) easily with a blade like this.

Imagine that the wider the teeth are, the more like a small chisel they are. Now imagine whacking 30 or so small chisels very rapidly 20mm deep into wood. It's going to chip out all over the place unless you take very shallow passes very slowly - which may defeat the purpose of getting a blade like this (presumably to cut more material quicker).

I'm not saying it's a bad idea (as I have one myself), just making you aware of the limitations

 

[Mr. Baxter]

Yes, thanks for the warning. I don't know of any place around where I live in Germany that will grind the teeth flat. I've seen some people speak of some rip cutting and glue line blades, but can't seem to find any that have the diameter and arbor size i need.

 

[mikefab]

http://www.fine-tools.com/kreissaegeblaetter.html

Dieter Schmidt does a flat tooth rip blade in 250/300/350 diameters but not with the kerf width you want

 

[Mr. Baxter]

http://www.fine-tools.com/kreissaegeblaetter.html

Dieter Schmidt does a flat tooth rip blade in 250/300/350 diameters but not with the kerf width you want

Thank you, that would work. Would I be able to use it cutting cross grain?

 

[mikefab]

Thank you, that would work. Would I be able to use it cutting cross grain?

It would make a bit of a mess. You need a blade with pointy teeth for cross cuts.

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Cutting comb joints with an 8 inch wide kerf blade is a lot different than cutting tenon cheeks with something around 12 inches. Sack the idea, you would have to be nuts.

If you want to do tenons on the table saw, use a regular kerf rip blade for the cheeks and a crosscut for the shoulders. It takes 2 passes, but with a bit of organisation, group all similar cuts in a batch. At least the blades are optimised for the cuts required. Flat top rip blades are easy to come by. Trend does one, and Felder offers one also, off the top of my head. I'll bet Freud, CMT and others do too.

Mike.

 

[mikefab]

I agree. I cut tenons as described by Woodbrains. And my rip blade isn't flat topped either. The position of the shoulder is dictated by the cross cut so the height of the cheek cut only needs to be in the ball park rather than dead on.