Is this fixable

[SteveF]

glue joint has sprung
it is dry...and is titebond so don't think i can do much with it

 

[riclepp]

depends what the whole thing is, any more on what the whole thing is?

 

[SteveF]

it is part of a cot...bad start

 

[custard]

Unfortunately Steve there isn't an easy fix. You don't say which Titebond you were using, it's worth noting that Titebond III and Titebond Extend have significantly longer "open" times than Titebond I and II. However they all tend to be pretty "grabby", in other words a tight joint needs to be taken right home in pretty short order or it can seize up well before the open time expires.

If you're doing a complicated glue up single handed (and I'd class those cot sides as a complicated glue up) then there's two things to consider,

1. Have a dry run at the glue up to flush out any problems before the real thing.

2. Think about alternatives to Titebond or PVA. Commercial workshops will often use UL39 with a slow hardner to give themselves a full two to four hours of open time. For the hobbyist there are other options like Extramite/Cascamite, liquid hide glue, slow set epoxy, or even a polyurethane glue which gives about 20-30 minutes open time as standard which can extended with some joints, especially on ultra dry manmade materials like MDF, by applying a mist spray of water on one component and the poly glue on the other component.

 

[marcros]

Is it strong, in which case you could look at disguising the gap rather than fixing the issue?

 

[SteveF]

titebond original

30min clamp time

I have this nasty feeling of putting thru TS and starting again
I think the gap is beyond a bit of sawdust filler
gutted this happened..short of timbers and time
lining up and clamping 76 dowels was not the best approach
wish I had an excuse to buy a domino


Steve

 

[JustBen]

titebond original

30min clamp time

I have this nasty feeling of putting thru TS and starting again
I think the gap is beyond a bit of sawdust filler
gutted this happened..short of timbers and time
lining up and clamping 76 dowels was not the best approach
wish I had an excuse to buy a domino


Steve

I've recently got a Domino and it's fantastic. I didn't 'need' it but was brainwashed by the videos and advertising.
I recently made a small table with 16 dominos and it was a breeze to glue up. All glued in one go. Clicked together like a German jigsaw puzzle.

 

[custard]

titebond original

30min clamp time

I have this nasty feeling of putting thru TS and starting again
I think the gap is beyond a bit of sawdust filler
gutted this happened..short of timbers and time
lining up and clamping 76 dowels was not the best approach
wish I had an excuse to buy a domino


Steve

Steve, Titebond I (Original) only has 5 minutes of open time at best. That's a lot of components to assemble accurately in 5 minutes. And I can promise you life isn't that much easier with Dominos. Dominos are so tight in the mortices that the "grabby" nature of Titebond means if they're not fully seated, in the end grain mortices in particular, they'll have set long before you can get the sash cramps tightened up to bring the joint home. You either need a second pair of hands, a different glue, or enough luck/practise to get it absolutely right first time.

 

[JustBen]

I have found so far that dry fitting the dominos makes them easier to get in a second time.
They have a ridge on the edge that is bigger than the cut (well this batch of dominos I got from festool are)
A dry run is essential unless you are 100% sure that your accuracy is perfect.

 

[carlb40]

Is it possible to apply localised heat to the joints to loosen the glue and then add more glue and reclamp?

 

[SteveF]

Is it strong, in which case you could look at disguising the gap rather than fixing the issue?

hiding the error would be a good option
I wanted this perfect...it is a cot for my grandson
I guess one day I will achieve perfection ...just not yet

Steve

 

[ColeyS1]

Wang a clamp on it. You never know, it might squish up a bit

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[xy mosian]

Drill out the dowels from the outer edge of the rail, then fit longer new dowels.
Or, Carefully saw through the dowels leaving them flush with adjoining surfaces and drill the rail as above.

In both cases if the exposed dowel end is disliked, fit a grain matched slip of wood into the rail to cover the dowel ends.

Of course this won't work if the rails are too short.

xy

 

[SteveF]

Wang a clamp on it. You never know, it might squish up a bit

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slapped a load of glue in joint and re-clamped..glad I oiled the faces
it seemed to pull up
will re-evaluate tomorrow

Steve

 

[parvum]

Hi, Why not drill the rail from "on top" to effectively remove the dowels, cut through "lower dowels to remove too short "rung", drill out dowels stubs in lower rail , cut and fit new "rungs", fix lower end of rung with dowels knocked through drilled holes, plug holes with plugs cut from offcuts of rail timber."top" dowels can be pre fitted and the rung fitted top first. Easy to talk about, certainly harder to do. When your grandson is older you can tell him how you made his cot! He will be impressed with the care you took!
best regards

Paul

 

[Benchwayze]

Isn't there a case for leaving multiple M&Ts like this dry? They aren't going to fall out if the corner joints are glued well. Okay, the cot-side might rattle, but then a lot of them do. Just a thought. :?:

 

[ColeyS1]

Hope it's o.k as the ash looks proper I wonder if slightly countersinking the dowel holes on one of the pieces might help get them to find there way in the holes a bit easier - bit like champfering off the end of a tenon

Coley

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[SteveF]

Hope it's o.k as the ash looks proper I wonder if slightly countersinking the dowel holes on one of the pieces might help get them to find there way in the holes a bit easier - bit like champfering off the end of a tenon

Coley

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I reglued and clamped...seem to have got away with it

so it is ash ?

I should have kept the off cuts they burn well

Steve

 

[rdesign]

just a tip for future glue ups! and fast setting yellow glue wipe down the joints with a wet rag before applying glue this extends the open time and doesn't see to affect strength or bond.

tip i learned off an old crazy indian! woodworking in america for a year

regards richard