Is the axminster TS 250 table saw any good

[Matty1]

Hi all,

Just joined the site and what a great place full of handy info. I'm in the market for a new table saw. I have lathes, mitre saw etc. ideally all the saws I want are available in the states but not here.

My main question about the axminster TS 250 is it doesn't seem to have a full length fence ? Does anyone who owns one find this affects the accuracy of the saw ? I want to use it for some furniture projects, boxes etc and some larger shop based furniture projects. As with all of these things it's about decent research. In all homesty the axminster cabinet saw would be ideal but is a tad outside of the budget at the moment.

Cut wise I'll only be doing maybe 20 cuts a week.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Full length fences (used as full length fences) are a seriously bad idea, for safety reasons. If you search on here there are lots of threads as to why. The fence should stop just past the front of the blade.

Looking at the pics on Axminster's site, that's what this fence does. It's the same, fairly strong clamp as the TS 200, so should be fine. If you're worried, go have a look at one in an Axy showroom.

If the motor is the same as the TS200, etc, it should last for a very long time at that workload. The other big advantage of that model is that it evidently shares many common parts with the TS 200, and Axminster keep practically everything in stock as spares. The other thing is that you don't have to run a big or thick blade on it necessarily, as long as the riving knife can be made to fit (a TS200 one might and is very cheap). Smaller diameter diameter puts less strain on the motor; thinner kerf wastes less stock and makes less dust. Both the TS200 and TS250 are 30mm bore, so it's only really the riving knife.

I have the 200 mm size, and table extensions. Even so, I'd struggle with big sheet material, simply because it's hard to hold it (don't have an outfeed table, which would help). Having a full fence would just increase the propensity to kickback really, not solve the main problem, which is lack of a big sliding carriage. It's versatile, but not a tool to do everything bigger saws can. But then it's not anything like the price, either.

I'd get Steve Maskery's "Compleat Table Saw" DVDs for a good overview* of precision setup, good, safe working practice and handy jigs.

Regards,

E.

PS: Obviously I forgot to say, "Welcome!" What dreadful manners!

PPS: The accessories are very similar to (the same as) the Kity 419, too. For that, there is a second guide rail for the outfeed side of the saw, and a longer fence with a second clamp at the far end. As long as you put a short auxiliary fence on the side facing the blade, making it work like a short fence but clamping it at both ends rather than just one, it might put your mind at rest regarding rigidity. That said, I have that setup on my Kity, and stopped using it that way because it's a PITA to set up in practice.

*disclosure: Steve's a mate, but that doesn't mean I'm (all that) biased! His videos are really good: http://workshopessentials.com

 

[Matty1]

Thanks for your reply, on reflection that does make sense. Not ideal having a loose piece of stock bouncing around behind the blade and the stock and I suppose once the cut is complete square it doesn't matter behind the blade. Thanks for that totally makes sense. I have found some decent reviews of the 200 so think I may go for it. For the money getting a decent induction motor and a cast table it's a steal really.

Thanks for the welcome too

 

[Eric The Viking]

I wasn't trying to push you towards the TS 200 incidentally.

If I was making the choice again, I'd be seriously looking at the 250 myself (I don't think it was available back then). You don't have to run a 250 blade all the time, but the extra 25mm would be very handy in any number of situations.

Are you near enough to Axminster for a day out? They have some really helpful people in the shop, who would probably guide you to a decision you'd be happy with long-term. If I remember, there's also a branch in Basingstoke now, obviously easier if you're up the north end of Hampshire.

There's nothing quite like actually having the thing in front of you to help make a decision.

 

[Matty1]

That's a typo on my part, I meant the 250 as I would like to have the extra cut depth. I could make it up to Basingstoke and have a good look at one. I'd also like to have a look at the bosch gts 10j purely for the fact of being able to move it if needs be. I have a few larger projects I want to attack late this year and having the workshop space would be handy being able to pack the bosch in a corner for a few days.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I'd call a few days ahead, to check they have one on display. I usually go to Axminster itself, so if they haven't got something in the showroom there's always the warehouse. I've no idea how big Basingstoke is.

Cheers,

E.

 

[Rhossydd]

purely for the fact of being able to move it if needs be.

I keep my TS200 on a mobile base http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-un ... obile-base so I can move it out of the way when working with other machines as I've only got a small workshop.

FYI Rutlands sell exactly the same mobile base http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... ota+dk2040 but often have deals that work out cheaper than Axminster, eg today you can get two for the price of one. I got one at half price some time ago,so maybe worth waiting for a deal to turn up if you're not in a hurry.

 

[Matty1]

I have even thinking over dinner, as you can appreciate having 2 lathes already in my ever decreasing workshop space that for what I want a band saw and a track circular saw may be a better option. I own a router already and a bandsaw would give me the option to cross cut my blanks down to smaller for my usual work and use the bandsaw, track saw and hand tools (for the joinery) for making boxes, small peices of furniture etc etc? I will be very rarely cutting up large boards which may make the table saw a pointless waste of ever decreasing space.

What's your guys thoughts on this, I'm a woodturner so kind of feeling new ground here.

 

[Rhossydd]

If you're primarily a turner I strongly suggest a bandsaw, maybe even if you're not too ;-)

 

[Matty1]

I'm primarily a turner but want to start doing other things. I really what to pick the right tool that's going to give me the maximum amount of applications really in furniture and box making etc do you honk a bandsaw or table saw would be better. I'm leaning towards a table saw ??

Thanks

 

[Eric The Viking]

Personally, bandsaw first.

Safer, smaller footprint overall, very flexible in use. Worth it for resaw ability alone, and I think a good one would be a gnats cheaper, especially secondhand.

A lot of peple don't know how to get the best from them, and as a consequence get frustrated and give up. We have bandsaw experts on here (Mr. Maskery again), and one truly excellent supplier of blades (Tuff Saws). Taking the right knowledge and a good blade together it's easy to make them sing.

I think it's quite contentious though. I'm not one yet, but I believe jewellery box makers regard a table saw as pretty much essential.

 

[Matty1]

Thanks for your help

 

[marcros]

Personally, bandsaw first.

Safer, smaller footprint overall, very flexible in use. Worth it for resaw ability alone, and I think a good one would be a gnats cheaper, especially secondhand.

A lot of peple don't know how to get the best from them, and as a consequence get frustrated and give up. We have bandsaw experts on here (Mr. Maskery again), and one truly excellent supplier of blades (Tuff Saws). Taking the right knowledge and a good blade together it's easy to make them sing.

I think it's quite contentious though. I'm not one yet, but I believe jewellery box makers regard a table saw as pretty much essential.

A difficult one. I aspire to be a jewellery box maker one day! I have made a few though.

There are some tasks that the bandsaw is indispensable for on boxes- resawing and book-matching particularly. However in my experience it was extremely difficult to manage without a table saw for box making. I did but that was with the benefit of a woodrat for cutting mitres and grooving.

If you want to make boxes, I would go for the tablesaw first. You can book-match or resawing by hand if necessary, or avoid it by veneering. If you want the machine for general use and it would be nice to make a box or two I would agree with Eric. I can only see his response above rather than your original post, which I will retread after posting.

 

[marcros]

Having read the full thread, I would go for the bandsaw and ideally the mft top discussed on the forum previously (which will compliment your track saw). You would have to have a well set up bandsaw to separate box lids, but it isn't difficult to set it up well- plenty of info out there. You could also use a router for that task- I have never done so though.

 

[Matty1]

Thanks for your input, I will look into all of the above and make a decision.