Iron Angles.

[Digit]

I know a visit to my GP might be in order but I actually don't want lots of planes! Embarassed
Which leads me to my question.
I'm about to start making some more woodies, and as I don't want a shelf full of planes, and as I work almost invariably in hardwoods, is there any any advantage in sticking to the 45 degree as opposed to 50/55 degrees for the iron?

Roy.

 

[Philly]

Roy
Traditionally wooden planes were made in 45 degrees for softwoods - it is much more common to find planes in 50 or 55 degrees for use with hardwoods, especially moulding planes.
I would go for 50 as a minimum - 55 is my usual angle for hardwoods. It is slightly harder to push but well worth it for the reduced tear-out.
Hope this helps,
Philly

 

[barkwindjammer]

Oh dear, I,ve just bought one of them cheap 'Stanley' honing packs, although I've sussed that the stone would best be used for stubbing out ciggies, it gives a guide on angles on the back, 25* and 35* :?

 

[AndyT]

Hi Barkwindjammer

The first post in this thread was about the angle between a plane's blade and the base of the plane.

The angles you mention are between the back of the blade and the bevel.

Though not the same thing, they are related. There was a very long detailed thread about it here recently: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?p=399087.

Some might think it too long and detailed to go over again!

 

[barkwindjammer]

:?

 

[Digit]

Thanks Phil, I wasn't aware of the relationship between the 45 and its history.

Roy.

 

[Philly]

Roy
They also used 60 degrees for smoothing the real tricky stuff, although you don't come accross too many of those. Probably because they used them 'til there was nothing left :lol:
Best regards
Philly

 

[Digit]

With the little bit of soft wood that I use Phil, having made planes at 55 and another at 45, I think I'll forego the 45s.
Point taken about a heftier push being needed on the steeper angles, but for finishing, my main use for bench planes, the extra effort is not a problem.

Roy.