Insulation...Again!

[Grinding One]

You assume that a straw bale would fit in my workshop. We don't have the vast workshops you yanks do i'm afraid.

Nah, you put them outside of door,that way the wind cannot get in....I hope you have another entry door? Yes us yanks have everything,but no time to use it??Always worried about the next tool purchase,heck I got it down to how many hours of work needed for which tool or nice piece of wood,Don`t you??
Oh by the way I only have two workshops so I`m not as well off as some of you think....

 

[BradNaylor]

I would definitely get rid of the up and over door.

They always seem to be draughty and give poor insulation even if well fitting. I would brick up and render the front leaving a 4' wide door opening, which I would fill with a couple of nice wooden doors made in the shop. It would make the workshop look more like part of the house rather than a garage, as well as improving insulation.

I can't imagine that you would ever need more than a 4' wide doorway.

Cheers
Dan

 

[wizer]

I would definitely get rid of the up and over door.

It's not an up and over, it's a Roller. I installed it early this year. For at least this winter, it's staying. If all the other work fails and the door turns out to be the main culprit then I will seriously look at replacing them with wooden doors.

 

[Oryxdesign]

I would definitely get rid of the up and over door.

They always seem to be draughty and give poor insulation even if well fitting. I would brick up and render the front leaving a 4' wide door opening, which I would fill with a couple of nice wooden doors made in the shop. It would make the workshop look more like part of the house rather than a garage, as well as improving insulation.

I can't imagine that you would ever need more than a 4' wide doorway.

Cheers
Dan

I've just done pretty much that for a friend of mine, we left a 5' opening and fitted 2 doors with a small window in them for light I was amazed how mch difference it made.

 

[wizer]

The other idea I had knocking about was to extend the doorway out to accommodate the roller. Then the inner aperture could be curtained without encroaching on workshop space.

One thing's for sure, something got to be done, coz I'm freezin' me bits off in there atm!

Rad fitted this Tues and I'm going to insulate the room next weekend. I think that will make a substantial difference.

 

[BradNaylor]

It's not an up and over, it's a Roller.

In that case, I would simply build a timber frame inside the roller shutter and fit a pair of doors in it - glazed probably.

This will keep the heat in and the draughts out. When you are working in the shop you can have the roller open, letting light in, but not the cold.

Cheers
Dan

 

[wizer]

Mike (or anyone) What type of insulation do I need for the roof? My supplier can get Kingspan:

http://www.insulation.kingspan.com/uk/kooltherm.htm

But neither of us know what best to use. Should I get the full 100mm ? What type is best? I'm guessing the K8 Cavity board?

 

[OLD]

When i did my flat roof the min. order quantity was a major problem. Only certain sizes were on stock and could be supplied in small quantitys .
If its a pitched roof just fit it between the timbers K7 .
k12 for walls thick as you can fit between timbers i am sure it will be fine for roof also.

 

[MikeG.]

Tom,

it isn't hugely important for that job, but the K7 Pitched Roof stuff would be ideal. Any of them are good. You should leave 25mm airgap above the insulation below the felt............but the insulation can hang down below the rafters. I would have thought that if the rest of your workshop is uninsulated then it would be unnecessary to use more than 70mm of Kingspan in this small area.

There is a trick to fitting the stuff that very few people do: Cut each piece of insulation undersize by about 10mm all round. Have a handful of 2.5" nails with you, and tosh-nail the insulation into place temporarily.......just pinned into the rafters (don't hammer the nails home). Then squirt all around the insulation with expanding foam. It does a magic job! Don't forget to wear gloves when using the foam, otherwise your hands will be black for a week.

Mike

 

[wizer]

Thanks chaps, will get some prices.

 

[Oryxdesign]

Tom,

it isn't hugely important for that job, but the K7 Pitched Roof stuff would be ideal. Any of them are good. You should leave 25mm airgap above the insulation below the felt............but the insulation can hang down below the rafters. I would have thought that if the rest of your workshop is uninsulated then it would be unnecessary to use more than 70mm of Kingspan in this small area.

There is a trick to fitting the stuff that very few people do: Cut each piece of insulation undersize by about 10mm all round. Have a handful of 2.5" nails with you, and tosh-nail the insulation into place temporarily.......just pinned into the rafters (don't hammer the nails home). Then squirt all around the insulation with expanding foam. It does a magic job! Don't forget to wear gloves when using the foam, otherwise your hands will be black for a week.

Mike

This is spot on advice, sometimes it helps to dampen the rafters which helps the pu stick.

 

[MikeG.]

This is spot on advice, sometimes it helps to dampen the rafters which helps the pu stick.

That is spot-on advice too!