Independently adjustable in feed and out feed router fences?

[radiohead]

Hello there,

I am putting together a router table and I am looking for a router fence that features independently adjustable infeed and out feed fence faces. I would want to use this to achieve planing cuts in the same fashion as the charnwood w015. I would post a link to a video of this capability in action but my account does not yet have permission so please head over to the charnwood website if you are unfamiliar with the w015 or its ability to achieve planing cuts.

You might say why don't I just get the charnwood as it can do exactly this? Well I am not confident with various aspects of the charnwoods spec. The router mounting system looks rather inaccurate and perhaps unsteady and I am not convinced of the fences accuracy either after reading various reviews.

So I am now looking for an individual fence that has this capability which could be attached to something like the ujk cast iron compact table. As of yet I have yet to find anything that fits this purpose.

So any help or suggestions would be most appreciated, thank you.

 

[JJ1]

What about making your own fence.
I recently made my first router table and the fence consists of split, sliding faces secured to the main fence with a couple of M8 bolts. For jointing timber it's a very quick and simple case of loosening two star knobs on the outfeed side, slipping a piece of postcard/photo paper,etc,etc. behind the fence and re-tighening the knobs. It works great and gives me a decent straight edge every time.

 

[radiohead]

Thank you, yeah I had considered that but I also want to see what is available commercially so I can weigh up what will be best overall.

 

[Hobbyshop]

The fence supplied with the ujk cast iron compact table appears to have adjustable (sliding) infeed and outfeed faces. Why not just loosen the outfeed side and shim behind it before retightening.

I realise this is not as convenient as a screw adjuster, but it is simple and cheap.

 

[radiohead]

Thanks, yeah I had also considered that. In fact the ukj cast iron table is high up on my list table wise. I am rather reluctant to go down the shimming route. I think I need a greater degree of accuracy and repeatability for the work I am planning on using it for.

On a side note, does anyone have experience of the 10 mm ukj insert plate? I have some mixed reviews of the 6 mm version and am interested to know peoples opinions on the 10 mm if anyone has any experience.

 

[siggy_7]

The Incra Wonderfence has this ability - you can buy it as part of an LS positioner package or a stand-alone fence which clamps to the table. It's not a hard thing to make yourself though, which is what I'd recommend.

 

[radiohead]

The Incra Wonderfence has this ability - you can buy it as part of an LS positioner package or a stand-alone fence which clamps to the table. It's not a hard thing to make yourself though, which is what I'd recommend.

I have looked at the incra and at the moment it is the best I have seen. I would be more interested in the 37" stand alone version and attaching it to a third party table. I am slightly concerned about the table clamps on it though. From what I understand you clamp it on your table and then align it perfectly parallel with the mitre channel by adjusting two philips screws at the top of each clamp. But I can't decide if after that initial alignment your fence will be perfectly true for the foreseeable or if every time you move the fence you then have to re align. I can't imagine the second being true, that would be a very poor show... Anyone have any experience with this?

 

[siggy_7]

The alignment with the Phillips screws you are talking about is to ensure the fence is perpendicular to the work surface (think the same axis as when setting a planer fence at 90° to the top), not to align it with features like mitre slots. To keep the fence parallel with a mitre slot I would use a square against the end of the table top when setting the fence (assuming your T-track is perpendicular to the end of the table), or make a not-quite-square that is aligned with your T-track for the purpose if the T-track isn't perpendicular to the end of the table. To keep the fence aligned with the T-track would otherwise require a fence rail like on a table saw, or the Incra LS positioner.

My advice would be to build a sled for your router table and not worry about T-track. You then don't need to worry about the fence alignment in that regard. I built a sled for my bench-top table (see https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/bench-top-router-table-t66404.html) and it's far superior to using a mitre gauge in a T-slot.

 

[SurreyHills]

As Siggy said you don't need to have the fence aligned to the mitre track to make cuts on a router table.

Normally you would either use the fence or the mitre slot, i.e. not both together. For example, for the planing cuts you are talking about it's just the fence that is used whereas for making a box joint you might use a jig that slides in the mitre track.