Inca bandsaw

[John Brown]

I dunno John, MusicMan's word is good enough for my amateur hour experience to take heed. I don't cut enough blanks for it to be an issue either way.

I wasn't disputing... Just saying that with a VFD you could achieve half speed, or less and seeing as how the motor is fairly small, a VFD could be had for under £100.

I bought an Evolution hand held circular saw for my shed build, as the little old Skil I've had for 15 years didn't have the depth of cut. I always thought of Evolution as B&Q rubbish, but I've been impressed. They claim it'll cut through metal, but again, I've only done so by accident.

 

[John Brown]

From a quick Google, it looks like a VFD may not be the solution. Ignore me...

 

[HamsterJam]

While we're on the riding the crest of the Inca wave, does anyone cut metal on their saw? I'm talking up to 4mm unhardened O1 flat stock. I'm prepared to buy another blade and it woud be for straight cuts, very gentle curves possibly.

Only used mine to cut wood plus a uPVC door panel once.

 

[Bm101]

Just for the record I've used the evolution to cut through 4mm hardened box section. I was being careful and cautious on the approach but to be fair, it chewed it up like it was nearly nothing.

 

[John Brown]

Just for the record I've used the evolution to cut through 4mm hardened box section. I was being careful and cautious on the approach but to be fair, it chewed it up like it was nearly nothing.

Interesting. Shame I can't fit one of those blades in my "table saw". I think they're an incompatible centre hole size.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

No, not that bit. I have that. I talking about the rail that the rip fence slides along.

I understand now. the part you are talking about is not aluminium. It’s steel. It does have two slots cut into it. it’s 7 o’clock in the morning here and the cat & kitten just woke us up. I’ll take some pictures soon.

I’m up. The socket cap screws have custom top hat or flanged washers that enlarge the diameter and stop the rail bearing on the steel bar.

The uncut back slot allows the rail to be swung out without taking out either of the socket cap screws taking them out gives a great opportunity for loss of the washers.

the additional 4 pictures are posted from my iPhone, they show that the bar has various positions that it can be locked in.
my guess is that it’s steel to reinforce the split table.
If you need measurements let us know.

 

[John Brown]

I understand now. the part you are talking about is not aluminium. It’s steel. It does have two slots cut into it. it’s 7 o’clock in the morning here and the cat & kitten just woke us up. I’ll take some pictures soon.

I’m up. The socket cap screws have custom top hat or flanged washers that enlarge the diameter and stop the rail bearing on the steel bar.
View attachment 102259View attachment 102260View attachment 102261
The uncut back slot allows the rail to be swung out without taking out either of the socket cap screws taking them out gives a great opportunity for loss of the washers.View attachment 102269View attachment 102268View attachment 102267View attachment 102266

the additional 4 pictures are posted from my iPhone, they show that the bar has various positions that it can be locked in.
my guess is that it’s steel to reinforce the split table.
If you need measurements let us know.

Thanks.
I would appreciate measurements, although it looks like a weekend's worth of filing, and that's assuming I could find the right sized angle iron to start with.

 

[HamsterJam]

I understand now. the part you are talking about is not aluminium. It’s steel. It does have two slots cut into it. it’s 7 o’clock in the morning here and the cat & kitten just woke us up. I’ll take some pictures soon.

I’m up. The socket cap screws have custom top hat or flanged washers that enlarge the diameter and stop the rail bearing on the steel bar.
View attachment 102259View attachment 102260View attachment 102261
The uncut back slot allows the rail to be swung out without taking out either of the socket cap screws taking them out gives a great opportunity for loss of the washers.View attachment 102269View attachment 102268View attachment 102267View attachment 102266

the additional 4 pictures are posted from my iPhone, they show that the bar has various positions that it can be locked in.
my guess is that it’s steel to reinforce the split table.
If you need measurements let us know.

Hi STWW
That’s interesting. I don’t have the bit circled in yellow (looks like a stop for the fence?) and I’m pretty sure the bolts retaining the steel fence rail have the same type of knobs as the fence and stop so no tools are required for a blade change.
What date is your machine. Think mine is 1997.

 

[MusicMan]

Yes, if you have a belt drive version and can put another pulley on to reduce the speed by at least 2x, and of course get a fine-tooth blade and take it gently, you might succeed on aluminium or brass. I might risk that, but then I am originally a metallurgist and have done plenty of machining,

I don't think a VFD works on a single phase motor, does it?

 

[MusicMan]

The circled bit in yellow is the fine adjustment. This was an optional extra. You get the fence roughly right then clamp it on the fine adjustor knob, use the horizontal knurly bit to set the fence finely, then clamp on the main fence knob.

This has really been a useful thread for people to find all the bits and bobs around the Inca saw. BTW Skinner Dessigns do a good aftermarket dust extractor (for when the table is not tilted).

 

[sometimewoodworker]

I don't think a VFD works on a single phase motor, does it?

It doesn’t. It’s for 3 phrase only

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Thanks.
I would appreciate measurements, although it looks like a weekend's worth of filing, and that's assuming I could find the right sized angle iron to start with.

I doubt that filing would be a reasonable option. You really need someone with a milling machine. The item you circled is a micro adjustment addition.

 

[John Brown]

I doubt that filing would be a reasonable option. You really need someone with a milling machine.

Still saving up for the lathe....

I'll probably just keep using my homemade aluminium rail. It's not perfect, but it works.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Additionally pics

 

[ekynoxe]

Hi everyone,

I know this is an old thread but it seems to be THE place for information about an Inca 342-186.

I'm the proud owner of one of them, and I've started the cleanup process, and I noticed that the blade guides are in poor state.
Judging by the state of the guide bearings, the previous owner didn't really deal with that area of the saw very well.

Shame as the rest of it is in great condition, and I even have the mitre gauge.

Looking at photos of other machines, I don't see a similar part where the holder of one of the guide blocks is "open". Even the incamachine website part is different: Inca | Woodworking Machinery & Accessories

Sadly for me, both guides are bent at the "open" block holder, and one of them is actually cracked.

I've got some new bearings coming, but I wonder if there is a place to check for new guide assemblies that is *not* the inca website. At £75 a piece, it's very pricy!

Thanks a bunch for all the info on this thread the last 10 years, it's going to be very useful to reassemble my inca!

 

[John Brown]

The bearing are a standard size. Available for skates or skateboards, I believe. As mentioned elsewhere, I bought a pack of 8 for about £5 some years back from the sadly missed Clas Olsen.
I doubt you'll find the holders for the graphite(?) blocks anywhere else, but maybe you could fix them. Must have taken some force to split that one! Are you sure you can't bend it back, maybe braze it? It looks too clean to have split, and I'd expect a split to start at a corner, although I'm probably wrong. Whatever, I can't see that there is much stress in that direction in normal operation.
I'll try to take a look at mine tomorrow, maybe there's a gap there be design.

 

[John Brown]

Ok, just read more carefully and enlarged the pics. I see what you mean now about the crack.
Looks like someone went crazy with the hex key to do that...
No doubt someone with better metalwork skills than me will be along shortly with sensible advice. The genuine Inca spares are really pricey. My bandsaw only cost me £50, so 75 for a guide would be madness.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

I doubt you'll find the holders for the graphite(?) blocks anywhere else, but maybe you could fix them.

the original guides blocks are steel.

My bandsaw only cost me £50, so 75 for a guide would be madness.

madness is comparing the cost of a replacement part, they are in limited supply, to the price you paid for a second hand machine.

if the only faulty part is £75 and the machine cost £50. Then the real question is. Is a fully working machine worth £125? Since my answer to that is, of course £125 is a OK price given the tat that is sold for more than that. You got lucky with the price you paid, the bandsaw in good working condition is worth at least double to 3 times the price you paid. However you may think it too much.

Now that doesn’t mean that you need to pay that much if you have the skill (or know someone with the skill) to fabricate a repair, just that comparing the cost to you of the machine to parts needed isn't useful.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Shame as the rest of it is in great condition, and I even have the mitre gauge.

You do realise that the extension section you have for the mitre gauge means that at the moment you have the gauge on the wrong side of the machine, don’t you?

Also the main previous owner had no idea how to setup the guides as they had destroyed the thrust/back bearings and used the back of the holder as a guide.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Are you sure you can't bend it back, maybe braze it? It looks too clean to have split, and I'd expect a split to start at a corner, although I'm probably wrong. Whatever, I can't see that there is much stress in that direction in normal operation.

It looks as if the user that did the damage was a gorilla, and by the other damage didn’t know or care how to set all 3 guides.

My guide holders do not have the open section so even gorilla strength wouldn’t split them, they are almost certainly an older version than yours.

The guides are cast so bending will not work. It’s worthwhile seeing if it can be brazed, if it can then add a strip of steel as well to strengthen the join. The set screw, that had ridiculous amount of force used on it, only needs to be tight enough to hold the guide in place