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cheekyboy":1v6qrb6v said:
Hi all :p

If you could only ever have 10 hand planes ? What would they be ??????
Any make or model but which ones ??? 8-[
Some of us hereabouts though have more than...a lot more than ten... - Rob
 
Well I definitely would need these....

Jack plane (rough work)
Try plane (for flattening)
Jointer plane (for edge jointing and flattening long pieces)
Smoother
low angle block plane
Shoulder plane

After that the world is your oyster - possibly some moulding planes? But I could do the majority of work with those listed.
I haven't mentioned brands because we all have opinions about those.... :wink:
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
No.7 for jointer (No.6 is a waste of time)

The halves are better than the Numbers in my view so a No.4 1/2

The No.60 1/2 is a low angle I use a lot

My old Issac Greeves chariot with 1 1/2" blade is ALWAYS in use...it does wonderful work on small projects.

I am beginning to love my new Aled shoulder plane project...this I am sure would be a keeper

and finally a finger plane...I long for an IBEX but then I build guitars so this is a very specialist plane.

One outsider is my No. 5 1/2 which sometimes performs a kind of dual role...it comes in handy but I could just about do without it.

I would love to be able to afford Cliftons or Lie Nielsens but for now very old Stanleys suffice...the new ones I have seen and tried are complete rubbish in comparison.

Jim
 
Looks like nobody here ever needs to cut any grooves or rebates...

While agreeing with the basic try/jack/smoother/block options, I'd say as soon as you do any sort of framed panel construction you really do need a plough of some sort. I'd suggest an old style wooden plough with a set of blades, but sometimes a 'modern' equivalent like a Record 44 or 50 is just right.

And although they are fun for some simple mouldings, the 405 or equivalent are not as good as some dedicated moulding planes - so a couple of small beads and an ovolo or two, and some general purpose hollows and rounds had better go on the list.

But don't forget going across the grain - some people would class a router such as the Stanley 71 as a sort of plane, and everybody needs one of those.
 
These are the ones I use the most

#7
#6
additional #7 with steeply cambered blade or toothed blade
#5 1/2 with steeply cambered blade
#4
#3
Low angle block with adjustable mouth
Shoulder plane
Scraper plane
#80 scraper
#9 mitre plane for shooting
Skew rebate plane (or I will have next week :p )

nearly forgot

#405 Multi-plane
#55 Universal plane

Sorry that's 14 but I don't have any machinery, so do everything by hand.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
A jack plane and a block plane...........and a big long job if you really must. Then spend the rest on wood. Any more than that and you're a collector :wink:

Mike
 
Ok, here goes. (in order of preferance)

1. Clifton #5 1/2 - If I could only buy 1 plane, this would be it!!
2. LN 60 1/2 - still the best low angle block IMHO
3. Clifton #7
4. LV Low Angle Jack - great allrounder, but especially good for end grain work.
5. Shoulder plane - I hear that somebody around here produces a mighty fine kit :wink: :wink:
6. Small high angle smoother - again, I hear that somebody around here has been working on a mighty fine kit for some time :roll: :wink:
7. Veritas Skew Rebate
8. Clifton #3
9. Record 043 - really handy little plane for grooves.
10.Not sure yet, I'll get back to you
 
Mike Garnham":10n6cqzi said:
A jack plane and a block plane...........and a big long job if you really must. Then spend the rest on wood. Any more than that and you're a collector :wink:

Mike
I'd have laid money on Mike's recommendations.... :lol:

Mike - building one of your magic boxes, will post some piccis later - Rob
 
OK, I'll bite. Here's my list

1. LV low angle block
2. Clifton #5 1/2
3. LV low angle smoother
4. Cliton #7
5. Clifton #4
6. Clifton #3110 shoulder plane
7. LV large shoulder plane
8. LV flat spokeshave
9. LV round spokeshave
10. LV #80 scraper
 
Mike Garnham":3eexfk9c said:
A jack plane and a block plane...........and a big long job if you really must. Then spend the rest on wood. Any more than that and you're a collector :wink:

Mike

Just make sure you buy timber that is easy on your irons Mike. Otherwise you could spend a lot of time sharpening, in a day's work of planing.

That's my reason for having more than one 'specimen' of some of my planes.

I could get by with spare irons I suppose, but there is still the job of swapping them over. It's convenient to reach for another plane, you know is sharp.

Then a good hone at the end of the day and it's all ready for next time.

Regards
John


:)
 
Here's my two euro's worth:

LN Block
LA Jack
LA Smoother
LA Try
2.25" woodie
Small router plane
No 80 scraper plane
28" Big Woodie
Small shoulder plane
LV compass plane - Rob
 

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