I think i just did something stupid. Bought a plane...

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Henning

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I went and got myself a proper plane :shock:

From before i own a few planes of course, one broken old wooden thingy, one old wooden shoulder plane, a stanley which i spent ages getting ok'ish and which still need some work and a stanley spokeshave. All of which is some serious sources of frustration and not much else.

And then i bought a E.C.Emmerich adjustable block plane. (seen here: http://www.ecemmerich.com/secundus-hobel.html)

Not sure that was a smart move. I have made one shaving, straight out of the box, which both felt and looked better than any shaving i've ever made.

Off to have a long look at Clifton offerings now :shock:

Which planes does a newbie really need first?
 
Ironballs":33g23yri said:
Looks like a nice plane, welcome to the slope :twisted:

I'm not really sure that's a welcome i should be thankful for... :shock:
I have a slight feeling this will be expensive...
 
Henning":2d9aa2n8 said:
I'm not really sure that's a welcome i should be thankful for... :shock:
I have a slight feeling this will be expensive...
Probably...welcome to the 'Slope' :wink: - Rob
 
Henning":3pw4mvqc said:
Which planes does a newbie really need first?
That's a thread that's been done to death...

Two planes: Your block, and a No.4 (or No.5) - set for smoothing;
Three planes: Your block, a No.4 (or 3) - smoothing, and a No.5 - jack
Four planes: add a No.7.......

Cheers, Vann
 
Vann":456p1naf said:
Henning":456p1naf said:
Which planes does a newbie really need first?
That's a thread that's been done to death...

Two planes: Your block, and a No.4 (or No.5) - set for smoothing;
Three planes: Your block, a No.4 (or 3) - smoothing, and a No.5 - jack
Four planes: add a No.7.......

Cheers, Vann

Thanks a lot Vann! Nice one!

I spent last night reading the "complete book of woodworking tools" on the Emmerich page and actually figured out the difference between some of the planes. As a non-native speaker i sometimes spend a lot of time figuring out things :oops:
I think i'll go for 3 planes first based on your suggestions. Thanks again!

And thank you very much to you slope greasers as well :-D

I will probably treat myself to one of the 704-P's from E.C.E next. Seen here: http://www.ecemmerich.com/primus-hobel.html
That leaves me with needing ("needing" would be more correct...) a number 5...
 
Hi Henning,
I have a 704-p but much prefer the secondus or even the wedge type planes from ECE and Ulmia. Look for the adjustable throat and a screw lever cap - simple and effective
Matt
 
Shrubby":2zkcrf9j said:
Hi Henning,
I have a 704-p but much prefer the secondus or even the wedge type planes from ECE and Ulmia. Look for the adjustable throat and a screw lever cap - simple and effective
Matt

Beeing the complete newbie that i am, may i ask why you prefer the wedge?

And thanks!

Only reason i would be going for a 704-P is the fact it's available here, and i would get it fast... :oops:
 
Beeing the complete newbie that i am, may i ask why you prefer the wedge?

Those new to wooden planes with a wedge normally have considerable difficulty in adjusting the iron, it can be most frustrating!
With practise, and a suitable mallet, the skill can be learned and it becomes quicker to adjust than a Bailey type, also the wedge holds the iron in a solid manner than can never be replicated by a Bailey type. Once set the iron stays set, chatter, no such thing!

Roy.
 
I prefer the secondus type with a screw lever cap - these are only fitted to a couple of fine smoothers( ECE 111-s and Ulmia equivalent) The wedge type are more common and these offer very solid blade fixing as mentioned.
I find the primus unpredictable in use, and the others very reliable.
Matt
 
The reason it has been done to death Vann is because everyone has a different opinion.
It depends on the intended project list, but I'd say block and 7 (or block and 5 1/2 if of less robust stature) for starters. The block will do the work of the skinnies, and a 7 is plenty versatile - the downside would be for smoothing mobile stuff, as it won't get into smaller hollows - but nor will it make them.
Of course, the easy solution is just to get all of them. There's always room for more green paint in the world. :D
 
Digit":1t6z73e5 said:
Beeing the complete newbie that i am, may i ask why you prefer the wedge?

Those new to wooden planes with a wedge normally have considerable difficulty in adjusting the iron, it can be most frustrating!
With practise, and a suitable mallet, the skill can be learned and it becomes quicker to adjust than a Bailey type, also the wedge holds the iron in a solid manner than can never be replicated by a Bailey type. Once set the iron stays set, chatter, no such thing!

Roy.

Shrubby":1t6z73e5 said:
I prefer the secondus type with a screw lever cap - these are only fitted to a couple of fine smoothers( ECE 111-s and Ulmia equivalent) The wedge type are more common and these offer very solid blade fixing as mentioned.
I find the primus unpredictable in use, and the others very reliable.
Matt

Thanks both!

I can see that a wedge is much more secure, but i usually end up like this :cry: whenever i try to adjust the shoulder plane i have with a wedge.

That said, full of inspiration from this forum i took my Stanley SB3 and my newly aquired ECE and planed down a good 6mm. from an inlay for a door. (Mind you, it was pine, soft, but with a good few knots) and it worked out pretty well considering the skill-level.
So... I have decided to dig out the shoulder plane for an odd job and try again. I didn't know you used a mallet on them before i saw it here :oops:, though, so i'm probably a little better off this time around.
I'll try and do some pic's of my use and progress.

Thanks again!
 
Tapping the toe and heel of a woody for adjustment is like riding a bike, once you've cracked it you wonder what the problem was.

Roy.
 
I have that adjustable block plane from E.C.Emmerich but I am not really happy with it. First of all it has a very wide throat and it is not adjustable. Secondly the iron does not stay put when doing any serious work. There is no way I can tighten the lever cap enough to make it stay put. Thirdly I think the adjuster is flimsy with a very big backlash.

Now I only use it for chamfering edges. When I need a block plane for any other use I use my Veritas LA block plane.
 
Caruso":kp57z0va said:
I have that adjustable block plane from E.C.Emmerich but I am not really happy with it. First of all it has a very wide throat and it is not adjustable. Secondly the iron does not stay put when doing any serious work. There is no way I can tighten the lever cap enough to make it stay put. Thirdly I think the adjuster is flimsy with a very big backlash.

Now I only use it for chamfering edges. When I need a block plane for any other use I use my Veritas LA block plane.

Thanks!

I have noticed that the small one i have is a little flimsy and have decided to rather get either Lie Nielsen or Clifton planes instead of E.C.E.
I will not get any plane until i can use the ones i have though, which might be some time ahead...
I have some pic's i will try and upload tonight of some of my others.
 
Lagging a little behind, here :oops: :oops: :oops:

I blame it all on the upcoming holiday :p

Enough talk already, here's some pic's:

My new multitool for woodworking which started this thread...
Very happy with it, although i have to be very careful not to change the setting of the blade while i use it:

3.jpg


And, since that was a success, and since i seem to be on "the slope" good anyway, i decided to get out the old planes, which is something i got for free for a job i did once. Here's one:

2.jpg


Here's what i used it for:

1.jpg


I have a sinking feeling i will be broke for the next decade...

Thank you to all who have offered great advice, i'm sure i'll keep asking stupid newbie questions some time ahead and i appreciate everyones patience :D
 
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