I need advice on working with logs please

[PAC]

What I would ask is, if I then turn it round and chuck it on the tenon I've made, if I'm treating it as a 'roughed out' bowl, once I've hollowed out the centre, am I not giving myself problems trying to re-chuck it ?

The tenon may warp a bit and turn a slight oval shape but I've never had problems remounting it on the chuck, even without truing the tenon up again. But safety comes first, so if it needs truing then do as described above.

 

[user 5053]

An electric chainsaw is all you need. Stand the logs on end and and cut down the centre. If the saw gets trapped you may need a couple of wedges. I would prefer to rough them out straight away and leave them where it is not too hot for a few months. They will go all sorts or funny shapes and will have to recut the dovetail recess on some of them as has been said. I did a stack of beech bowls about 60 and hardly any split. Have fun and may your log be with you.

 

[duncanh]

An electric chainsaw is all you need. Stand the logs on end and and cut down the centre.

Everything I've ever read and heard about chain sawing suggests that you don't cut down the end like this - the chain doesn't cut well with this grain orientation and the saw will really struggle. This will possibly cause you to force the saw more than you should and that's never a good thing.

You're better to lie the log down and cut along it's length - this requires you to have a longer saw bar than the log length (at least 2" longer so the tip of the bar doesn't enter the log)

Duncan

 

[wizer]

oh come on Duncan. Soulfly is a PRO. He KNOWS what he's talking about. Nothing he says ever permeates from his backside....EVER..... :shock:

 

[Bodrighy]

An electric chainsaw is all you need. Stand the logs on end and and cut down the centre.

Everything I've ever read and heard about chain sawing suggests that you don't cut down the end like this - the chain doesn't cut well with this grain orientation and the saw will really struggle. This will possibly cause you to force the saw more than you should and that's never a good thing.

You're better to lie the log down and cut along it's length - this requires you to have a longer saw bar than the log length (at least 2" longer so the tip of the bar doesn't enter the log)

Duncan

It's also a heck of a lot safer unless you have a good grip in the wood somehow.

Pete

 

[PowerTool]

I tried cutting logs in half on the end grain once or twice - doesn't work properly,don't do it.As Duncan said,lay them down and cut lengthways.

Andrew

 

[Lightweeder]

An electric chainsaw is all you need. Stand the logs on end and and cut down the centre.

Everything I've ever read and heard about chain sawing suggests that you don't cut down the end like this - the chain doesn't cut well with this grain orientation and the saw will really struggle. This will possibly cause you to force the saw more than you should and that's never a good thing.

You're better to lie the log down and cut along it's length - this requires you to have a longer saw bar than the log length (at least 2" longer so the tip of the bar doesn't enter the log)

Duncan

Duncan - fear not. I wouldn't dream of tackling a log the way soulfly suggests - but thanks for the input anyway soulfly.

I've made a cracking little cradle for holding stuff while I saw it, either down the length while it's lying flat, or through the thing. You can also hold your foot against it, which is a help. I'm OK with the chainsaw.

PAC - agree I can use the tenon again when the thing has dried out, but what about the bottom ? I'm no good with jam chucks - can never get them running true. #-o

 

[TEP]

I've been watching this thread with interest at all the individual ways to render a log into a turning blank.

Can anyone explain what I have been doing wrong for the last few years as I have always cut my large logs down the end grain? I can't say I have ever had any real difficulty, or difference in cutting this way, as against cutting with the grain. In fact I have found that cutting with the grain usually chokes the gullet of the chainsaw with long ribbons of shavings, which then can stop the chain being oiled properly while working.

I know that lots of people find problems cutting end grain but this is generally due to the fact that the saw they are using is just not man enough for the job. Which can be even more dangerous IMO. They tend not to give second chances.

 

[CHJ]

Tam I think a lot depends on the tooth form on your saw chain, I know the one I have (electric, cheapie gift) which cuts well across the grain will not touch end grain, so with me it's always either cleave or bandsaw.

 

[TEP]

Your probably right Chas. I always get my logs in 4½ foot lengths (if possible), only cause that is what my trailer takes. I found I was losing more wood when cut into short blanks, than leaving them as long as possible. I always cut the full length of the logs, and find it is easier to store boards rather than small blocks, certainly in my case.

 

[Paul.J]

I find that my electric saw,a Stihl,seems to cut against the grain ok,as in the piccy.
Though when i cut up some Cherry plum it did struggle so left it and cut it with the grain.

 

[PowerTool]

Tam - I've found that trying to cut end grain on small logs,the chain tends to grab and bite,even with logs securely held (as said,probably because it's a crosscut chain,not a ripping one)
And it's not lacking in power - it's 73cc,18" bar;I find it a lot better with larger logs,and would probably be quite comfortable with 4' lengths.
I know what you mean about long ribbons of shavings,though - have to be careful where you stand,so you don't get buried in them :lol:

But can get a good finish off it cutting along the grain

Andrew

 

[TEP]

I agree with what you say Andrew, if the log is small, say under 12-14 inches dia. I would cut at an angle. I think the trouble is that most try to cut with a saw that is far too small for the work they expect it to do.

I use a Stihl 044 25" bar and ripping chain, with a TimberJig, best piece of kit I ever bought. Also a small Stihl 017 with 14" bar and crosscut chain. I have found I have never been beat yet with a piece of wood. :wink:

 

[duncanh]

Andrew

That's a nice big piece of laburnum

I can't help noticing that you're not wearing chainsaw safety gear - it might be worth getting some (and wearing it!).

Also, the tip of your bar looks to be pretty close to a second log - I'd be inclined to move back a little or make more space so there's no chance of a tip catch.

Duncan

 

[PAC]

In fact I have found that cutting with the grain usually chokes the gullet of the chainsaw with long ribbons of shavings, which then can stop the chain being oiled properly while working.

I too used to find that cutting with the grain (parallel to the pith) produces such long shavings that the chainsaw gets choked. However, it never happens now as I frequently pull the chainsaw out from against the face of the timber, by an inch or so for about a second, and this immediately clears any forming blockages.

BTW, my chainsaw is definitely happier cutting with the grain rather than across the end grain. In the latter case I get powder rather than shavings and the cut is far less smooth.

 

[Dalboy]

If the chainsaw is not cutting correctly means the chain either is not sharp or the tooth has been sharpened below the raised link in front of it. Below is a photo

All you need to take this down is a file and the correct gauge to make sure you do not take too little or too much off. Hope this is clear and of some help