How would you make this?

[Wilson joinery]

Morning everyone

How would you make something like this? Mainly thinking what you would make it from, 22mm mrmdf? And would you use the mrmdf for the seating bench too? And also how would you attach the seat to the cupboards each side? I can’t imagine dominoes would be strong enough?

Cheers in advance
Pete

 

[niall Y]

Re the seat I would make it as a rectangular frame from 2x2 timber with a couple of braces from front to back. I would fasten 18mm MDF to form the seat with a slight overhang to the front with a scotia or other moulding tucked into the rebate
To fix it I would use several large gauge screws from inside of each of the cupboards.

Just noticed the brackets in your photo,( bit difficult trying to read it sideways )
Using these you should be able to dispense with the bracing , though if you leave it in it will give you something solid to screw the brackets into , sideways.

Apart from the seating brackets it all looks to be made from 18mm board. Using 22mm might just be adding extra weight for no reason.

 

[ChaiLatte]

See if you can get an X-ray of the inside of the adjacent cupboards, or a photo of them with the doors open. That would tell you a lot. A 1.5 x or 2 x thickness inside skin for the lowest part of cupboard would give lots of possibilities for neat but secure fixing.

 

[johnnyb]

I would make in beech and ply. But each to there own I guess. The hardest bit is the curves on the coat rack. The brackets underneath are cod and just decorative( and waste space) I personally would make that much sturdier looking finish at 1 inch thick on the doors(min). 60 to 75 mm wide rails. It shouts mdf as it's a little bit flimsy. Imho

 

[Yojevol]

Photoshop at your service

 

[niall Y]

Now I can see the photo properly, courtesy of @Yojevol. I'm not sure what the curved panelling brings to the design. other than to give you the feeling that it is already" Pimm's o'clock" This back panel I would make using thin flexible MDF, glued back-to-back, with the stiles and rails applied to the surface to give the panelled effect.

 

[TRITON]

( bit difficult trying to read it sideways

Uber simple. Make the 2 side cabinets first, then a panel at the back and as you say a frame to A. support the seat, and B tie the side cabinets in. The rest is just hung on- top box, bit of skirting..

 

[Wilson joinery]

Hi everyone

Thanks for the replies so far. It’s a picture from a magazine that has been stored rolled up so the photo made it looks like the unit is curved but in fact it’s just the picture that was curved! I’ve attached a better photo. So maybe a 2x1 or 2x2 frame underneath the seat, secured to the side panels of the cupboard each side with 2 or 3 dominoes each side (or will screws be ok?) and the frame drilled into the masonry at the rear. Do you think I’ll need some sort of lipping applied to the front edge of the seat?

Niall Y - I wasn’t sure what you meant about the rebate?

Many thanks
Pete

 

[TRITON]

You could make the central seat curved ? even just slightly. That would be a nice touch.

 

[TomGW]

The two side cabinets look like fairly standard 'larder' units but would benefit from gables that extend to the floor (rather than kitchen type feet) to help support the seat. The support brackets under the seat will be difficult to fasten on the rear edge. However, if the rear of the seat is firmly screwed to a support batten fixed to the wall the bracket will provide a right angle triangular brace to the front of the seat.
Definitely a nice looking 'boot room' piece.

 

[recipio]

Looks like it's actually made with unfinished MRMDF. The two side units are straightforward - I would use 18 mm for the carcass and 6 mm for the panel doors. The seat could be made with a 2.5 x 1 inch softwood frame and faced on front with MRMDF ( I assume it's going to be painted. ) To attach the frame to the units a few #5 gauge screws would be fine. Those fancy brackets look superfluous in my view and only obstruct the Welly storage. I note there is almost no gap between the doors and even the best concealed hinges can sag a little. Probably better to allow a 10 mm gap just in case.