how to veneer MDF that has a solid maple lipped top

[oddsocks]

I am finally going to make a start on our bed, after living with the MDF/softwood/hardboard prototype for the past 4+ years.....

The main solid timber for the the legs will be maple, with the sides and foot of the bed being 25mm MDF veneered with maple. These pieces of MDF will have a solid strip of maple biscuited to the top so that I can form the rounded profile.

The question I have is how should I fix the veneer. Should I...

A. biscuit the solid lipping, plane flat with the MDF then veneer across the join the edge (that way disguising the lip but potentially ending up with the veneer being snagged in the future)...or....

B. Veneer the MDF then biscuit the solid maple lipping and plane flush with the veneer. This may make it obvious tht i have a veneer + solid but will (i think) protect the veneer edge.

Is there a 'right' way to do this?


Dave

 

[seanybaby]

I would go for A. It also gets round the problem of planning / sanding through a veneer

 

[oddsocks]

thanks Sean - that was my gut feeling as well.

 

[CNC Paul]

Dave,

I would use the option A, but I would not biscuit the lippings
I would just glue them with PVP and hold them in place till the
glue sets with the brown packing tape as it has some stretch.

 

[jasonB]

As you are going to be machining a profile on the lipping I'd go for B. By veneering to the edge you could have a visible glue line as the curve cuts through the veneer,

If it were just a square edge I would go with option A

Jason

 

[Oryxdesign]

If you are veneering the MDF yourself go for B.

 

[oddsocks]

thanks Paul, Jason and Oryx. At least the votes are now equally caste for Options A & B.

I've got the veneer (bought on ebay a few years ago) so will compare it to the maple I have to see what the colour match is like.

I've also got to decide how to glue the veneer on. I don't have a big enough air bag (just a hand pump system from lee valley tools) and have in the past used pearl glue for wardrobe sides so know i can do that but can still remember the effort needed!.

 

[OPJ]

I'm undecided but, if you do go for option A, you can build a dead-simple router jig to covert it in to a lipping-trimmer, which should save you some work with a hand plane. I still like to leave the lipping very slightly proud after trimming, so they can be sanded back. Sometimes, my router has a tendency to dig in slightly, if I'm not careful.

 

[JonnyD]

My Vote would be to make it from solid timber but if using veneer I would go with option B and select the solid maple strip to match the colour of the veneer. With option A the glueline will be darker and quite visible especially on Maple where the veneer meets the rounded edge.


Jon

 

[woodbloke]

As you are going to be machining a profile on the lipping I'd go for B. By veneering to the edge you could have a visible glue line as the curve cuts through the veneer,

If it were just a square edge I would go with option A

Jason

I agree with Jason...this is the correct way to go about this job IMO - Rob

 

[oddsocks]

Thanks all for the responses, I've decided to go with Option B and will (hopefully next weekend) do a small test with my stock of veneer and solid to see the colour /grain difference.

I'll post some pics.

I'll also start a separate thread re suggestions for a different veneer/timber for the headboard