How to true long boards

[outcycling]

Hi guys, this one has had me wondering for a while now (not that I have had need of it, yet!)

How do you true long boards ?

Before I start I'll say I know how to use a planner to square up twisted/bend boards.

For long boards I first thought you'd need a VERY long flat bed planner but now after much thought and reading of forums am guessing that the normal way is to pop if on a tablesaw to get one edge flat. Then run that edge over the planer. Then pop it back on the tablesaw to get the other side square to it and then run it throught he thicknesser to clean it up.

If it is twisted as well then I presume you have to put it on a jig and say run it through a bandsaw to get a flat side and work from there as above.

Is this the normal/prefered method or is there some other cunning tricks to end up with nice long square/straight boards ?

Many thanks,

Russ

 

[trousers]

What's your definition of "long" and "VERY long"?
Do you own a "planner" at the moment?
If you know how to use a "planner" then you'll know that it is usual to get one face flat first by taking out any twist (can also be done with hand held plane/electric plane), then flatten one edge square to that face.
Having achieved this, put it through the thicknesser.
By the time you've faffed around with jigs etc for bandsaws/tablesaws you could have the job done in half the time.

 

[outcycling]

Yep, have used a planner/thicknesser and got twist out of boards etc but for say the rails for a door on a wardrobe or an upright on a gate so maybe 2 meters long ?

I have made do with the SIP 01454 10"X6" Planer/Thicknesser up till now so the total bed length is only a meter. If the board you have is bowed or twisted over the full length then the usual technique wont work will it as part of the deflection would be off the table ?

Admittedly I could build extra in/out feed tables but these would have to be absolutely level to the tables beds.

Hence I wondered what you pros did.

Many thanks.

 

[outcycling]

Yep, have used a planner/thicknesser and got twist out of boards etc but for say the rails for a door on a wardrobe or an upright on a gate so maybe 2 meters long ?

I have made do with the SIP 01454 10"X6" Planer/Thicknesser up till now so the total bed length is only a meter. If the board you have is bowed or twisted over the full length then the usual technique wont work will it as part of the deflection would be off the table ?

Admittedly I could build extra in/out feed tables but these would have to be absolutely level to the tables beds.

Hence I wondered what you pros did.

Many thanks.

 

[Night Train]

If it is about 2m of board then it also depends on what the section size is.

If it is a board and thin relative to its width then it will be too flexible to flatten easily. Also the amount you need to take off to get it flat will leve you with very thin boards indeed.

If it is a large section that is quite thick compared to its width then you can approximate a flat face with the surface planer but you will need to check with winding sticks and either a straight edge or a good sight line down the length of it. It can then be fettled with a bit of careful planing either by hand or machine to just remove the remaining high points.
It can then be edged in the usual way.

However, if it is twisted then it may continue to twist as the stresses relieve as you process the timber.

For long straight boards for making doors you may be better off with a non twisted bit of timber as your starting point. The risk is that your doors will twist in service and you will have to keep messing with it to get the doors to shut correctly.

 

[Karl]

You need one of these

I've seen Brad (Naylor) use a jig for straightening the waney edges of boards on his table saw - it works really fast. But I dod think that you need a decent size and quality saw to make it work.

Cheers

Karl

 

[outcycling]

Yes Karl, got one of those as said, was just curious as to the way most furniture makers approach the situation.

Thanks Night train for the reply.

 

[Philly]

Russ
For long boards (say six foot and upwards) I first strike a chalk line along an edge. This reveals how straight (or not) the edge is, and I use this line to remove the majority of the waste before approaching a machine. Makes for quicker work in the long run and also often gives you a wider board as you don't need so many cuts on the jointer.
Hope this helps
Philly

 

[outcycling]

Seems the general rule of thumb is you don't all have mega long beds on your planner as I used to presume. You just get the board more or less straight first before running it though.

Thanks Philly.

 

[ivan]

What you can straighten with limited table length depends on the section and weight. Will it sag? (it may lift at the knives) Can I hold it? A couple of times table length is getting close to the limit, I should think.

I fitted my Jet with a 1M felder extension outfeed table, which is featured in their free promotional DVD; this should give you the idea. Aigner make extension tables too available from Scott and Sargents in Sussex. The Felder table fits, or removes, in about 20 seconds, and once set needs no further adjustment, unless you alter outfeed table height when changing knives etc. You can put a 3M length across with no problem, if you like.