How to straighten long stock without very big machines?

[xy mosian]

I straightened a sixteen foot mahogany board once over, with a string chalk line as reference.
xy

 

[blackrodd]

What safety recommendations would you use in this situation?
Regards Rodders

I think the jig he made is safe enough.
As for the pad he uses, I assume it passed the H&S requirements, but still I wouldn't use it.
Keeping your hands away from the blade is always the best policy, so I'd go with pushsticks.
(Although I personally don't use them when ripping wider stock)
There's probably a couple dozen things to consider when using a table saw, but apart from the mentioned pushstick,
a blade guard, riving knife and a sharp blade should be at the top of the list.[/quote




Please look at the post I put on the "push stick or pads" survey. HSE, do not condone pads, only push sticks.
I've put both circular saw and planer links It really is safety and without the stupid "I was given the wrong ladder
and couldn't think for myself, so now I'm dead" mentality.
Regards Rodders.

 

[dzj]

I had a look at the links you posted, Rodders.
Straightforward stuff, pretty much the way I was taught.
(Rip fences were a little shorter then and power feeders were not that common)

The guy in the video is from the US, so I assume that the pad he uses passed their H&S requirements.
Still, not something I would personally use.

 

[Peterthegardener]

Thanks everyone for your encouragement. Yesterday I went to watch another woodworker using a planer (my dad) and asked a few questions about technique. Then I put my glue-ups over the jointer and I got a very acceptable result. I think I had been unnessecarily worrying.

The bad news however was that one of the long glue-ups for one of the stiles had a patch of live worm. I had to cut it off and throw it on the bonfire heap. I obviously missed the signs when I selected the piece, so I shall have to make up a new piece.

Thanks again

 

[Jacob]

....

Please look at the post I put on the "push stick or pads" survey. HSE, do not condone pads, only push sticks.
I've put both circular saw and planer links It really is safety and without the stupid "I was given the wrong ladder
and couldn't think for myself, so now I'm dead" mentality.
Regards Rodders.

Yep close up pads and grippers are a really bad idea. With push sticks things can still go wrong but losing a finger won't be one of them

 

[PAC1]

....

Please look at the post I put on the "push stick or pads" survey. HSE, do not condone pads, only push sticks.
I've put both circular saw and planer links It really is safety and without the stupid "I was given the wrong ladder
and couldn't think for myself, so now I'm dead" mentality.
Regards Rodders.

Yep close up pads and grippers are a really bad idea. With push sticks things can still go wrong but losing a finger won't be one of them

To be clear HSE do NOT recommend using push sticks on a planer. They do recommend using push sticks on a Circular Saw

 

[Jacob]

....

Please look at the post I put on the "push stick or pads" survey. HSE, do not condone pads, only push sticks.
I've put both circular saw and planer links It really is safety and without the stupid "I was given the wrong ladder
and couldn't think for myself, so now I'm dead" mentality.
Regards Rodders.

Yep close up pads and grippers are a really bad idea. With push sticks things can still go wrong but losing a finger won't be one of them

To be clear HSE do NOT recommend using push sticks on a planer. They do recommend using push sticks on a Circular Saw

Well they should. They are very safe. Even if the blades are covered by the workpiece there is a moment when it finally passes the blades and they are exposed and a push sticks are essential. Grippers particularly bad here as you have to extend your arm over the cutter to keep control.

 

[PAC1]

Jacob to be clear the HSE do not recommend the use of push pads for general use on a planer. It is only for a very specific operation. They do not recommend push sticks or push pads generally because they consider the hand over hand method appropriate and safe. If you do this properly you are not pushing the end of a piece of wood as it gets close to the blades. By this time both your hands are on the outfeed side so cannot come into contact with the blades. If you think they should recommend push sticks on a planer write to them and tell them. We have had this conversation several time now and you have even tried to convince me that your method is safer. Neither I nor several other apprentice trained makers agree with you.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Jacob, I completely agree about using a torch across a surface. I've done it for years decorating the house (to check the walls), and do it for wood too.

That said, strong light and a straightedge together are even better! You can even use a whiteboard marker (on the straightedge) to transfer a mark from the straightedge to the high spot(s) you're trying to eliminate. The advantage of that stuff is that it dries completely, so what's left is a powder and it won't mark the stock if you're careful, as once dry it doesn't soak in.

Nobody so far has mentioned a simple stretched piece of string. It works (for straight lines on flat surfaces), and it's fairly cheap, too.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Nobody so far has mentioned a simple stretched piece of string. It works (for straight lines on flat surfaces), and it's fairly cheap, too.

Not quite the case, Eric: xy mosian mentioned using a chalk line, which is essentially the same thing. I can vouch for the technique's usefulness having used it myself quite often over the years, along with some of the alternative methods mentioned by others here, to help guide initial straightening or flattening of a severely distorted board, usually accomplished with planes, either hand or electric powered. After the worst of the distortion has been taken out, the job can be finished either entirely by hand or, frequently, using a surface planer. Slainte.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Nobody so far has mentioned a simple stretched piece of string. It works (for straight lines on flat surfaces), and it's fairly cheap, too.

Not quite the case, Eric: xy mosian mentioned using a chalk line, which is essentially the same thing.

Sorry XY -- missed that!

E. (not quite keeping up at the back)

 

[xy mosian]

Nobody so far has mentioned a simple stretched piece of string. It works (for straight lines on flat surfaces), and it's fairly cheap, too.

Not quite the case, Eric: xy mosian mentioned using a chalk line, which is essentially the same thing.

Sorry XY -- missed that!

E. (not quite keeping up at the back)

No problem Eric
xy