How to remove the yoke from my no4 plane?

[ali27]

The yoke of my no4 plane broke a week or so ago. Matthew
sent me one for free(thanks again for that) with my order.

How do I remove the broken yoke. I see it is held in place
by a thin piece of iron(I think). I guess I would just need
to push the iron out. I don't know how to do it.

Thanks in advance for ideas/advice.

Ali

 

[lurker]

You just have to drive out the pin.

Just a question of finding a bit of steel a tad smaller to act as a punch.
You will inevitably knacker the pin currently in place.

If you happen to be local to me -I have stuff to do all of this.

 

[Racers]

Hi, Lurker

He is in the Netherlands

ali27

The pin comes out from one side, can't remember which one

Pete

 

[ali27]

You just have to drive out the pin.

Just a question of finding a bit of steel a tad smaller to act as a punch.
You will inevitably knacker the pin currently in place.

If you happen to be local to me -I have stuff to do all of this.

Thank you for the kind offer. Unfortunately I don't think The Hague,Netherlands is close to you

I will try what you just wrote.

Regards,

Ali

 

[ali27]

Hi, Lurker

He is in the Netherlands

ali27

The pin comes out from one side, can't remember which one

Pete

Thanks Pete for that info.

 

[head clansman]

hi
the pin is usually protruding slightly on the side it comes out of, the other side is a slightly tapered hole , be gentle . hc

 

[woodbloke]

If you need to replace the pin, part of shank of a suitably sized HSS drill bit can be used. Just don't try and cut it with a hacksaw (use the corner of a grind stone and just rotate it 'twixt the fingers) - Rob

 

[ali27]

I removed the pin. Was easy.

Then placed yoke on the pin. Checked if everything
worked correctly. It did not. I could not set the depth
of the blade correctly. I had to use a lot of strength
to get a deeper cut.

I checked and rechecked why and could not figure it
out. I thought maybe the new yoke was too big. So started
to file it and tried again. Again it jammed and unfortunately
this yoke also broke!

Now that I remember the same thing happened with the original
yoke. I could not get a deeper cut because I could not turn the adjuster nut.

In the beginning the adjuster nut turns very easy, but then it won't and it
requires a lot of energy which I guess the yoke can't handle.

The adjuster nut turns perfectly without the blade in the plane.

 

[lurker]

Is the frog face smooth??

Sounds like the blade is not sliding over the frog

 

[ali27]

Is the frog face smooth??

Sounds like the blade is not sliding over the frog

Yes it is. I think I now understand what has happened.

Last week I was trying thicker shavings so I loosened the frog
and brought it a bit back to get a bigger mouth opening.

Next thing I did was, I brought the chip breaker's edge
closer to the blade's edge.

Now I see that the screw that attaches the blade to the chip
breaker is hitting the frog. So I can turn the adjuster nut
untill I turn blue, but it will not give me a deeper cut because
the screw I just mentioned hits the frog.

That must be the reason why I broke not one but 2 yokes! Is
that a record by the way?

 

[lurker]

If I've understood you correctly that sounds like a design fault to me.

 

[ali27]

If I've understood you correctly that sounds like a design fault to me.

I am not sure if I am correct, but I am guessing that the lenght of the chip breaker from the point where you can screw it tight with blade to it's front edge is not long enough.

 

[head clansman]

hi
I know it a no 4 but what plane is it, and is it the same make of blade, or have you upgraded the blade to an other makers name . hc

 

[ac445ab]

Hi,
If the cap iron is not original, may be the hole position for "Y" lever is not correct.
You could elongate the hole toward the high position with a little file and operate a welding. Reshape the square hole to right dimensions.

Ciao,
Giuliano

 

[Vann]

Is that a record by the way?

No it's a stanley

Sorry to hear you broke the yoke though .

Measure from the centre of the screw hole to the leading edge of the cap-iron (chipbreaker). Then we can check our cap-irons for comparison. You could make a longer cap-iron from a piece of flat sheet steel, or buy a replacement one (when you order your replacement yoke ).

I've just measured four 2" cap-irons. Two cap-irons were 77mm from screw hole to edge; a Record SS cap-iron is 78mm; and my Clifton SS cap-iron is 79mm. So (in theory?) a Clifton would allow the offending screw head to sit 2mm higher up your frog.

I hope this helps.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[ali27]

Is that a record by the way?

No it's a stanley

Sorry to hear you broke the yoke though .

Measure from the centre of the screw hole to the leading edge of the cap-iron (chipbreaker). Then we can check our cap-irons for comparison. You could make a longer cap-iron from a piece of flat sheet steel, or buy a replacement one (when you order your replacement yoke ).

I've just measured four 2" cap-irons. Two cap-irons were 77mm from screw hole to edge; a Record SS cap-iron is 78mm; and my Clifton SS cap-iron is 79mm. So (in theory?) a Clifton would allow the offending screw head to sit 2mm higher up your frog.

I hope this helps.

Cheers, Vann.

Hey Vann,

I measured what you asked. It is 76 mm. The chipbreaker's edge
is 1mm behind the blade's edge. It was 0.5-0.6 mm when I broke
the yoke.

Now that I have moved the frog more forward(smaller mouth) and
increased the distance between the blade and the chipbreaker's edge,
the blade can again be pushed deeper out of the plane.

I am guessing the blade could not get deeper before because the chipbreaker screw was touching the inside of the frog which made
turning the depth adjuster very difficult. Of course I forced it and that
has to be the reason I broke not ONE BUT TWO YOKES!! :lol:

I think I can bring the yoke to a car repair shop and ask them to weld
the broken pieces together. Should not cost more than a few bucks.

Take care Kiwi Dutchman,

Ali

 

[ali27]

Hi,
If the cap iron is not original, may be the hole position for "Y" lever is not correct.
You could elongate the hole toward the high position with a little file and operate a welding. Reshape the square hole to right dimensions.

Ciao,
Giuliano

Hi Giuliano,

The cap iron is original. Thanks for the idea.

Regards,

Ali

 

[ali27]

hi
I know it a no 4 but what plane is it, and is it the same make of blade, or have you upgraded the blade to an other makers name . hc

As Vann said, it is a Stanley. The blade is the original.

I think the problem started when I tried tuning the chip breaker. I did
not do it very well in the beginning and kept on removing material.

I guess I might have removed more than a mm length wise of the chip breaker. Also the fact that I moved the frog back so I could take thicker
shavings is a reason I think.

Regards,

Ali

 

[woodbloke]

[I think I can bring the yoke to a car repair shop and ask them to weld
the broken pieces together.
Ali

I'm not sure what's happening here...maybe a few pics would help?
If it's a modern yoke it's probably made from a variety of Dutch cheese (or something not much harder) As far as I know, only the older yokes were cast iron, but I'm not even sure even then if it's worth repairing - Rob

 

[bugbear]

Is the frog face smooth??

Sounds like the blade is not sliding over the frog

Yes it is. I think I now understand what has happened.

Last week I was trying thicker shavings so I loosened the frog
and brought it a bit back to get a bigger mouth opening.

Next thing I did was, I brought the chip breaker's edge
closer to the blade's edge.

Now I see that the screw that attaches the blade to the chip
breaker is hitting the frog. So I can turn the adjuster nut
untill I turn blue, but it will not give me a deeper cut because
the screw I just mentioned hits the frog.

That must be the reason why I broke not one but 2 yokes! Is
that a record by the way?

Just in case someone searches this thread...

Stiff adjustment is (normally) caused by excess friction almost anywhere in the system.

* Rough spots on the adjuster wheel, where it engages the yoke
* rough spots on the frog (the blade's normally OK)
* rough spots on the lever cap/cap-iron contact

Judicious use of lubrication, gentle smoothing, or both can help any of these.

BugBear