How to get proper joints to pop when finishing off?

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johninmacc

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Hi everybody. Im a newbie woodworker, but many years doing general DIY around the house etc., and starting to get into making stuff with “proper joints” instead of just screwing it all together! I’ve seen loads of videos online that show finished items with a shiny and glossy varnish/ oil that seems to really bring out the different grain ends and colours of the wood and wanted to know if anyone could point me in the right direction. It’s great to spend time on nice looking half lap, spline or box joints and then a little underwhelming that I can’t get the different grains and colours to stand out and pop. I appreciate that the videos are staged somewhat, but there must be something out there for us to show off our skills! Any ideas on what I can use. Thanks, in advance.
 
I find oil finishes the best for popping grain, with shellac a close second.

Try wiping on some boiled linseed oil, leave a minute or so, then wipe off thoroughly. Leave 2 or 3 days to dry, a week if you have the patience, then apply your chosen finish.

Or clear shellac, which is quicker as you can apply finish over it after a few hours, next day is safest.

There will be some products like Danish oil which both pop grain and can build to your final finish.

Be aware that classy finishing takes time - there is no one-coat solution. And it shows up every imperfection, so gets better with experience.
 
If I want showy end grain I go in with a fine modelers paint brush with D/oil........
just to the end grain.....twice if u want more pazaz...
Paint it on sparingly then wipe of.....care must be taken not to touch the rest of the projects surrounding wood....
I just use oil Danish oil for the touch up....
then after a few days finish the whole project....
not able to buy shellac here.....and the oil does the job anyway, just not fast drying.....
 
Sand to 400, apply Danish, buff of excess, leave overnight, repeat for a total of 3 coats. After each coat you have to buff harder as it sets quicker. This is straightforward and will give you an excellent bright and natural finish the adds depth to the wood.
 
I like danish oil for the ability to chose the level of finish you like, it takes many (were talking like 10-20) coats to get a really nice sitting on the surface finish with danish but you can get it like a thin piece of glass on the surface, or you can stop with less coats and get anything from satin wood surface to glass. as the layers build up less oil is required and whilst fairly simple to apply you need to keep an eye on it as some features such as knots will release oil hours after you've buffed off the majority of the finish. with most finishes you want to be quite wuite careful in regards to ventilation and many are flammable.
 
If I want showy end grain I go in with a fine modelers paint brush with D/oil........
just to the end grain.....twice if u want more pazaz...
Paint it on sparingly then wipe of.....care must be taken not to touch the rest of the projects surrounding wood....
I just use oil Danish oil for the touch up....
then after a few days finish the whole project....
not able to buy shellac here.....and the oil does the job anyway, just not fast drying.....
Clogs, have you tried an arts supply/artists shop to buy shellac? I eventually found some here in Portugal and had been looking for ages. Managed to get some flakes and have made my own. It's wonderful stuff not just for finishing but can mix with saw dust & use as a filler and sealing as well. Main component in a friction polish but used mainly on turned work. Cheap as well. Shan
 

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