How to dry logs properly

[Random Orbital Bob]

That's the generally accepted rule of thumb for blank creation. Split the log longitudinally (I chainsaw mine for accuracy). Do this just to one side of the pith. Then split that half section into roughly square pieces. I then bandsaw a round out of that using different sized plywood templates lightly fixed to the bark side. That way the flat side is table side down and the wood is stable as you bandsaw through the circle. I keep a selection of different diameter ply or cardboard templates so I always have one that will fit the diameter of the log I'm making the blanks from. I then end seal the cut face and 1" overlapping the long grain sides. I don't bother with the bark side. I use whatever I have to hand...wax, paint, pva, that end seal stuff from chestnut which is brilliant but expensive.

Once you've got a circular blank with bark on one side you've achieved three things that are useful for the turner:

1/ Your drying time is substantially reduced because there's a lot less mass than in log form
2/ The blanks are easy to stack and store inside
3/ They're now mountable directly on the lathe when dry enough (or straightaway if turning green) with either a woodworm screw or face plate

 

[brianhabby]

I don't think I can split my logs as they are quite small and there wouldn't be much useful material left. I think I will just put these eucalyptus logs with the fire wood & not bother in the future - I wish I had a log burner, I give all my offcuts to my nephew and he keeps nice & toasty through the winter.

Just to go back to my original question, should the logs that I do keep be kept in the shed or would they be alright outdoors? If indoors then space may be a problem.

regards

Brian

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I keep my logs outside. I keep blanks I've pre-cut inside. If you wanted the logs to dry faster they can still be outside but perhaps rig up some kind of makeshift shelter with a tarp for a roof. As long as air can get to them but rain keep off they will dry over time. Even left completely open they will get moisture content down to around 20% after some years.

 

[chipmunk]

+1 for Bob's comments.
I have also read that occasional rain isn't a problem and it's more important to get it into the shade out of direct sunlight.

I also think though that it very much depends upon the type of timber - there doesn't seem to be a one-size-fits-all approach.
Ash, beech, yew and even oak are reasonably easy to dry from my experience especially if I split the logs down through the pith.
Laburnum and hawthorn also seem to be ok if I halve the logs too although laburnum sapwood is tricky to keep free of spalt.

Sycamore I find is a real pig to keep white without green spalt lines. I've tried standing it on-end before sealing and without sealing and I've also tried sealing it and then standing on end but it always spalts for me.
Holly goes grey and splits whatever I try too unless I cut it into small spindle blanks and dry them inside quickly on the radiators!

Just keep trying - you'll get there in the end.
Seasoning wood does take time though - time to get right but just time! You do need to be patient.

....but it's worth it. Air dried timber is so much nicer to work and finish than any of the kiln dried stuff you can buy.
...and it's cheaper too!

HTH
Jon

 

[woodfarmer]

to dry the split logs, stack them in a single row deep up to a couple of metres high, just depends how stable you log "wall" is.. ideally start off the ground so they do not draw damp from the soil. they need lots of air and for timber as opposed to firewood, keep the sun off them. It may also help to seal the ends to slow drying to prevent extra stresses in the logs..