How sharp, how often & how?

[Jelly]

Thanks everyone this discussion has helped a lot! I'm now getting nice results more consistently, which is partly down to improved dexterity, but the massive improvement in quality of surface finish is clearly down to improved tool sharpness.

I have noticed that the 1¼" skew I use for roughing and gross shaping gives less pleasing results than the ½" skew I've been using for shaping beads. The larger one has been ground with a straight edge to meet at about 40° and seems quite friendly in use, the little one was rusted to hell with a trashed edge when I found it, That's been re-ground to a curved edge (gentle near the bottom, becoming pronounced at the top), with a 15° to 20° meeting angle, the finish is far better, but the tool requires far greater concentration to use.

 

[Rhossydd]

.... skew I use for roughing and gross shaping gives less pleasing results than the ½" skew I've been using for shaping beads. ....

I'm surprised no one in this thread has referenced your problems to your previous thread about using skew chisels new-with-a-skew-t94185.html
I suspect that using a skew to rough out timber will be hammering off the unsupported, decent, edge almost instantly.
I've always regarded the skew chisel as a tool of refinement and finishing, not a 'do anything' tool. I rough timber down with the tool designed for that purpose, a spindle rouging gouge, to close to final dimensions and then use a skew for the final finishing.

I usually sharpen with at least a 240g fine belt on the Sorby Pro edge, preferably 600g. Before I used the SPE I sharpened with a fine diamond or water stone. When you're only using it for final finishing, the edge will last a lot longer, so the extra care is no problem.

 

[Jacob]

......
I've always regarded the skew chisel as a tool of refinement and finishing, not a 'do anything' tool. I rough timber down with the tool designed for that purpose, a spindle roughing gouge, to close to final dimensions and then use a skew for the final finishing......

Me too. Roughing out gouge is equivalent to a scrub plane and takes a deep scoop out of an uneven surface.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

During "normal" use, it isn't uncommon to use a skew on square timber because it would be the tool of choice for forming pommels. If used correctly, there's no reason why you couldn't rough down with a skew, I've done it myself in the past but generally, a spindle roughing gouge is the better choice for that.

 

[Jelly]

I'm shopping around for a roughing gouge at the minute, as I don't have one, but have just been paid...

I do re-sharpen after roughing out, or cutting pommels for exactly the reason you describe... That said, the skew really is quite a versatile Do-It-All tool, I'd be tempted to get a straight chisel for peeling cuts, intial shaping of pommels and other less gentle work.

 

[woodfarmer]

I sometimes make a light touch on the insides of gouges with an Arkansas slip stone. Other than that straight off the grinder. Always grind lightly with a sharp stone (well dressed) and it doesn't hurt to take light clean cuts with your tools. If it is hard work, or you get more than normal amounts of dust likely is tool is getting blunt.