How old is my backsaw?

[MrJay]

Like I said. Saw dating. Salt.

 

[lurker]

I have tyzacks same as those pictured, they were my Dads and I guess he bought them new in the 50's. I doubt yours are very much older.

I have lots of other older makes too, but the tyzaks are the ones I use - no reason other than sentimental.

Assuming you want to check for a decent saw, easiest way is to run a micrometer over the blade.
The newer they are them more likely the steel is just a flat sheet rather than a properly made saw.
Can anyone confirm this or am I talking c**p as usual??

 

[lurker]

Pedder,

Does your "expert " want to buy a very rare pre 1880 (by his criteria) back saw I have, with an original plastic handle. 8)

 

[pedder]

Does your "expert " want to buy a very rare pre 1880 (by his criteria) back saw I have, with an original plastic handle. 8)

My expert? :-s

Assuming you want to check for a decent saw, easiest way is to run a micrometer over the blade.
The newer they are them more likely the steel is just a flat sheet rather than a properly made saw.

Please tell me more about that. (Allthough i don't own a micrometer.) What else than a flate sheet of stell shall a properly sawblade be? Tapered back on a back saw? :-k Never heard of, but that don't mean much :lol:

Cheers Pedder

 

[bugbear]

Pedder,

Does your "expert " want to buy a very rare pre 1880 (by his criteria) back saw I have, with an original plastic handle. 8)

(pssst; that was "admiral", not "pedder")

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

Assuming you want to check for a decent saw, easiest way is to run a micrometer over the blade.
The newer they are them more likely the steel is just a flat sheet rather than a properly made saw.

Please tell me more about that. (Allthough i don't own a micrometer.) What else than a flate sheet of stell shall a properly sawblade be? Tapered back on a back saw? :-k Never heard of, but that don't mean much :lol:

Cheers Pedder

The measurement thing would only apply to "hand saws" (as opposed to backsaws).

You're looking for tapered grinding.

For further info, try reading "HOW A DISSTON HAND SAW IS MADE" here:

http://www.toolemera.com/Manufacturers/ ... ols.6.html

BugBear

 

[pedder]

The measurement thing would only apply to "hand saws" (as opposed to backsaws).

BB, thanks for clarification.

 

[Jake]

Admiral's expert based his dating on the split nuts - plastic handle and split nuts is an unusual combo.

 

[lurker]

Well seems I had a few senior moments yesterday

Mixed me Pedders with me Admirals

And started waffling on about handsaws when everyone else was discussing backsaws. :roll:

I DO have a plastc handled backsaw with split nuts though :lol:
I bought it at a boot sale specifically for the nuts.
Its left whole at the moment as I am planning to practice sharpening with it.

 

[Racers]

Hi, Lurker

Its left whole at the moment as I am planning to practice sharpening with it.

It would be easer with a file :wink:

Pete

 

[Jake]

I DO have a plastc handled backsaw with split nuts though :lol:
I bought it at a boot sale specifically for the nuts.

How odd!

 

[Peter Evans]

I would love to see a picture of a plastic handled backsaw with split nuts!. Disston introduced the domed screws in 1876 and whilst the UK was slow to adopt them, I would think most makers were using them by 1900. That slowness probably accounts for the Disston price premium in the early 20th century over British saws.

Of course probably millions of saws were made with split nuts over the 150 years before 1900 - hence we see them all the time, even in the colonies.

Some modern makers use non-removable rivets, perhaps some of those look like split nuts?

Split nuts have made a comeback with modern high quality makers - nostalgia?

 

[kenneth cooke]

Here's a couple of Tyzacks (badged Frederick Willey, Leeds) that belonged to my Grandfather - I reckon they are early 1900's?:

Rod[/img]

I have a Frederick Willey, Leeds tenon saw which belonged to my late uncle who was a joiner. I had it sharpened by City Tools in Leeds and it is superb. I also have a Tyzack tenon saw which has also been sharpened by them. I believe they are as good as it gets unless you pay out the considerable amount required for LN saws which I must say, I have and they are astonishing

 

[Peter Evans]

That is an interesting sharpening job on the Willey backsaw, I guess users have run the mill file up to the bevel, but not to the end of the saw blade. At least you know how much of the saw has been used, and you know when you have run the saw too far into the wood - the saw jambs in the cut.

 

[bugbear]

That is an interesting sharpening job on the Willey backsaw

Yes - it is indeed. Getting those teeth even and lined up would be quite an exercise now

BugBear

 

[Ray Gardiner]

Hi Pedder,

Did you ever get around to taking any pictures of that saw? I have scanned
this thread and can't see any pics. (maybe I missed it :roll: )

Regards
Ray

 

[pedder]

Hi Ray, sorry for being late. I made two pictures, the last ones in this blogentry: http://pedder-altedamenauskiel.blogspot ... -ende.html
Still I don't know how much I'll do on this saw. Didn't even sharpen the teeth. :wink:

Cheers Pedder

 

[MIGNAL]

That is an interesting sharpening job on the Willey backsaw

Yes - it is indeed. Getting those teeth even and lined up would be quite an exercise now

BugBear

I do believe the very first saw (15 tpi) that I sharpened turned out much better than that. I think I'll give City Tools a miss.

 

[Harbo]

Mignal - a bit of confusion here - the photos are of my saw with teeth untouched - nothing to do with City Tools.

The saw as actually got no teeth at all now as I am in the process of re cutting them.

Rod

 

[MIGNAL]

Ooops!! My apologies to Kenneth Cooke and to City Tools of course.