How NOT to make field panels - Do Not Do this!

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I'm a little concerned that the router might be running faster than the euro block is designed to run?!🤔🤔🤔🤔
 
@Jameshow ahh, just a tad faster, the router runs at something like 17,000 RPM, that’s just a smidge under 300% rated max speed of the block. But, the cutters are pinned and wedged😜
 
Pic 1. Thought, yup no probs there
Pic 2. hmmm, not sure what that is, maybe an extension of some sort.

Pic 3. WTF :eek:

I''ve watched a joiner cutting a panel raising with an 85mm router bit freehand, working very slowly, and the guy had massive forearms, so I think thats kind of ok. But pic 3 :LOL:


I think the problem with this place is the vast majority of you haven't see the results of a spindle moulder accident involving the loss of fingers. You quickly come to the conclusion that this woodworking thing can be kind of scary unless you follow those hse instructions to the letter.

My ex boss took off the tops off 3 fingers, right down to the base of the nails on index,middle and ring using a panel raising bit on the moulder, just shaved them off and there was no bits left over to try to stitch back on.
Kind of like Pzzzzzft and they were gone. Silly barsteward thought using guards was for girls.
 
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Thankfully you posted this in a room full of people who know how wrong this is but are too polite to call you batshit crazy 🤭

The real scary thing would be if you posted this on YouTube - Some proper nutter may actually try to copy it 😬
 
There should be a disclaimer on this thread “don’t try this at home”
What is wrong with your spindle moulder ?
You can get panel fielded cutters for the router.
Reminds me of the crazy Canadian, cutting dovetails with a bench mounted chainsaw
 
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Unless you post a video of you actually using that set up I for one don't believe a word of it.
Although there are people stupid enough to do it I seriously doubt you are one of them - at least I hope not!

You're having a laugh, however what would concern me is that there might well be people browsing the forum who think, "there's an idea, I'll try that" PLEASE DON'T, it's downright dangerous and I'd suggest a bit irresponsible posting the thread in the first place.
 
So, trying to get myself a little more enthusiastic about routers, I decided to experiment making fielded panels with a router instead of my trusty spindle moulder. As the title say, do not do this, it’s extremely dangerous, and rather silly!

First off I need a cutter, I have a nice big panel cutter I use on my spindle moulder, it’s only 190mm in diameter, and made of aluminium so fairly light. It’s only rated at 6000RPM, and my trusty router doesn’t have speed control, so that could be interesting.

View attachment 145683

I now needed an adaptor, the cutter is designed for a 30mm shaft, but my hand router only takes 1/4”. An adaptor is required, luckily, I have a stubby spindle for my spindle moulder. It has a threaded hole on the underside that allowed me to quickly make an interface on the metal working lathe so that it would fit into the router collet. I snuggled the collet up good and tight!

View attachment 145684

The idea is to run the router on top of the work, and use shims to both space off the router (ok they will be rotating so care is needed) and to set the distance down for the cut from the top surface.

View attachment 145685

The little Elu router looked a bit small compared to the cutter block. But what the heck, in for a penny in for a pound. If you go to my thread on gate renovation you can see the results in oak. Not bad!
Hehehe. Funny.
 
So first off, in the interests of Health and safety I tested it out on the bench. I sat the router in my vice, and gripped it inverted. The nice thing about the Elu is that it has a proper switch, not one I have to press all of the time. I was able to operate the on off of the router from the plug. So, stood a long way away initially to check it out how it would react. It sat there purring and make a nice high pitched wine.
 
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So first off, in the interests of Health and safety I tested it out in the bench. I sat the router in my vice, and gripped it inverted. The nice thing about the Elu is that it has a proper switch, nit ine I have to press all of the time. I was able to operate the on iff of the router from the plug. So, stood a long way away initially to check it out I texted how it would react. It sat there purring and make a nice high pitched wine.
Remind me of model aeroplane engines tested on the bench. One false move and you lost a finger!!
 
I used Kojestia material for the interface shaft, no chance if that letting go. I don’t have much of that stuff left in my stash, but it always makes me chuckle when I’m using it.

I'm sorry but I have to ask (Google didn't return anything), what is Kojestia ?
 
@Daniel2 it’s a blend of three things I believe, I have a mate who has a high temperature kiln that he uses for casting iron, so seriously hot! and can therefore create his own blends of materials to make alloys. We can test ductility and hardness so we are sure of it’s physical limits. It’s not just chucking 3 things in the pot, mixing them up and hoping that everyone works it out.
 
Flushed with my success from yesterday. I’m going to have a go at mounting my spindle moulder rebate block, with a top bearing to create a serious flush cutter. The advantage of the spindle block is that it has carbide disposable cutters and ‘nickers’, so none of the issues of a router cutter that creates tear out at the edges. I think the extra mass will mean it can take a good bite in one go. I intend to vary the top bearing (which I have a few) to allow me to cut door or window frame rebates. These are typically 16mm deep and around 50mm deep.

I would welcome any suggestions, help with how to do this setup as safely as possible. The cutters on this rig will be on the side, ie exposed to my midriff where as the field block had them on the top, out of the way so to speak. They are limited projection, so the sane amount of cutter exposed as any router bit.
I intend to do it hand held again.
 
Flushed with my success from yesterday. I’m going to have a go at mounting my spindle moulder rebate block, with a top bearing to create a serious flush cutter. The advantage of the spindle block is that it has carbide disposable cutters and ‘nickers’, so none of the issues of a router cutter that creates tear out at the edges. I think the extra mass will mean it can take a good bite in one go. I intend to vary the top bearing (which I have a few) to allow me to cut door or window frame rebates. These are typically 16mm deep and around 50mm deep.

I would welcome any suggestions, help with how to do this setup as safely as possible. The cutters on this rig will be on the side, ie exposed to my midriff where as the field block had them on the top, out of the way so to speak. They are limited projection, so the sane amount of cutter exposed as any router bit.
I intend to do it hand held again.
Presumably this is to help anyone that hadn't worked out the joke yesterday?
 

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