How long for a Rob Cosman plane tuning?

[Cheshirechappie]

Bloody hell another sharpening thread !!!!!!!!!!!!

Actually, it started as a plane tuning thread, and morphed.....

 

[Dangermouse]

Ahhh.... those bloody Morphing gremlins are at it again !!!!!!

 

[Jacob]

I'd like to inspect some of these blades sharpened on dished oilstones.

Drop in any time Dave. Give us a call first perhaps.

Jaakko is in direct conflict with Larry Williams who likes to keedp his religiously flat.

I'm not religious. Wos this name thing? It's not my real name you know. It's actually Clint Grimsdale

I know which method I would go with, and yes I have tried both.

David Charlesworth

Both? There's more than two, by a long chalk!

 

[DTR]

Bloody hell another sharpening thread !!!!!!!!!!!!

Actually, it started as a plane tuning thread, and morphed.....

Sigh, another potentially interesting thread ruined by this pointless argument :roll:

 

[G S Haydon]

How long do you think it can go without being refreshed? A year? FYI I'm a weekend woodworker.
Without an Arkansas, do you go straight from the oilstone to a strop or do you take intermediate steps?
Sam

With the type of work I do the india and a palm of the hand strop is just fine. Although I can well appreciate other types of work will require further refinement. are you happy with the results your getting?

 

[G S Haydon]

Larry Williams.

You might want to look in to Larry's back story - his opinions and techniques are founded in a depth of knowledge.

BugBear

I intend to from the little I have seen it's good stuff.

 

[Jacob]

......
How long do you think it can go without being refreshed? A year? ....

Much more often than that. Basically as and when. If you are doing a lot of work and a lot of sharpening it'd be every day. You can tell when it needs doing - the edge slides a bit unevenly and doesn't feel as though it is being ground. The surface fills up but also gets traces of shavings (often very thin so you don't see them) and bits of wire edge left behind.
Larry W does his with a flat plate - which means flat stones. I do mine with a 3M Diapad which is bendy and follows contours. It's only a quick pass - just 3 or 4 seconds.

I thought Larry W was rather going through the motions with his first sharpening - if the blade had been really well used it'd take few more passes than he showed. One of the hazards of sharpening demos - you run out of blunt edges to demo on!
PS I was impressed by his little angle template thing. Much better as a training device than that Cosman gizmo.

PPS I wonder if failure to recognise the need to freshen up an oil stone is the reason for their fall from favour? It makes a big difference and struggling away with a dirty old stone would be no fun at all. Diamond stones don't need it, water stones spend more time being freshened up than actually used (by the sounds of it!), scary sharp sandpaper is replaced with fresh at regular intervals.

 

[Corneel]

Larry Williams.

You might want to look in to Larry's back story - his opinions and techniques are founded in a depth of knowledge.

BugBear

I intend to from the little I have seen it's good stuff.

Larry is a good guy, with lots of practical experience and I admire him a lot. But don't take everything he writes for gospel, only because of his name. He's occasionally wrong too, like everybody else.

 

[Corneel]

PPS I wonder if failure to recognise the need to freshen up an oil stone is the reason for their fall from favour? It makes a big difference and struggling away with a dirty old stone would be no fun at all. Diamond stones don't need it, water stones spend more time being freshened up than actually used (by the sounds of it!), scary sharp sandpaper is replaced with fresh at regular intervals.

That's probably why my Indian stone fell out of favour with me. It is very dirty now. That, and it's never ending thirst for more oil. When I see people on youtube using these stones, they only iuse a little bit of oil, while mine keeps on drinking. No idea where all that oil ends up.

 

[Dangermouse]

Before you use a new oil stone , I was taught to soak it in a tub of oil first. I use very thin oil or paraffin from then on.

 

[bugbear]

Before you use a new oil stone , I was taught to soak it in a tub of oil first. I use very thin oil or paraffin from then on.

Some of them specially claim to be pre-soaked.

BugBear

 

[MIGNAL]

Baby Oil. Good enough for those little chaps it's good enough for me.
I actually use a MKII guide (set at 24.5 degrees) to apply the stuff. The oil runs down the guide at the correct speed, spreading itself evenly on the stone. No way on earth can that be done freehand.

 

[J_SAMa]

How long do you think it can go without being refreshed? A year? FYI I'm a weekend woodworker.
Without an Arkansas, do you go straight from the oilstone to a strop or do you take intermediate steps?
Sam

With the type of work I do the india and a palm of the hand strop is just fine. Although I can well appreciate other types of work will require further refinement. are you happy with the results your getting?

Not really happy... I am using waterstones and they are fast, so fast I can feel the blades being ground. But I'm tired of flattening them. I'd been flattening them with a diamond stone and now the diamond stone is glazed . I'd wanted to switch to oilstones... until I saw the price tags... A Norton stone costs more than a diamond stone :evil:
Sam

 

[Jacob]

Loads of them around 2nd hand. I've never bought a new one.

 

[woodbrains]

Baby Oil. Good enough for those little chaps it's good enough for me.
I actually use a MKII guide (set at 24.5 degrees) to apply the stuff. The oil runs down the guide at the correct speed, spreading itself evenly on the stone. No way on earth can that be done freehand.

Hello,

Interesting, the Mk 2 isn't pre calibrated to 24.5 degrees, do you use a dial indicator to get this unusual angle? What is the coefficient of friction for the baby oil and would a bit of talcum add some abrasive quality

Mike.

 

[bugbear]

Loads of them around 2nd hand. I've never bought a new one.

I thought you'd been using the first one you bought for your entire career, since they don't wear?

BugBear

 

[charvercarver]

I use 3 in 1 oil for everything, even my waterstone slips. Most non specific Oils are mineral oil anyway as far as I can tell. An old timer at work uses lamp oil which is mostly just kerosene.

I've found that for flatness and ease of use my spiderco ceramic stones are excellent, they never need flattening and you can use them dry. Occasional cleaning with a bit of vim, and maybe a sweep with a magnet now and again, and all is well.

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Paraffin in the best honing fluid by far, I have found. It keeps the stones cleaner and helps with keeping the cutting fast. Baby oil is largely paraffin, but like honing oil, 3 in 1 oil and the usual media, I think it is too viscous for efficient swarfe removal.

Mike

 

[bugbear]

Hello,

Paraffin in the best honing fluid by far, I have found. It keeps the stones cleaner and helps with keeping the cutting fast. Baby oil is largely paraffin, but like honing oil, 3 in 1 oil and the usual media, I think it is too viscous for efficient swarfe removal.

Mike

Kingshott recommends mixing white spirit and engine oil, until you get a mixture that has the right viscosity for the stone you're using.

BugBear

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Did the oil, white spirit mix when I first started woodworking. It is effective, but white spirit not so good on the skin. Paraffin is kinder, I find.