How do you seal wax finish?

[sitefive]

have made some benches/tables and done them in briwax finish..I have buffed it to shine after finishing applying it has dried for days now.., however the stuff still comes off when you rub hard on it , now the clothes gets dirty once you sit on a bench for longer times and you can see the finish just coming straight off :|
What the hell... how do you seal this thing so it just stays there without ruining everything both the freshly made furniture and your clothes?

 

[sitefive]

after some research seems like you can't put anything over this wax?
well I have to admit this Briwax wax thing is biggest piece Of $hit finish there is
I have spent like £70 just to buy almost all of their colours in past weeks,
-you have to wear gasmask to apply it
-The colours in samples Does not matches AT ALL
-You can't get any consistent results with it
-It looks different all the damn time whenever you put it over different age/structure wood, not just the structure- the whole damn shade looks way different all the time.
-And now I have realized its soo damn fragile that you can't even apply it to a tabletop only on some display pieces no1 will ever touch.
-It stains clothes if you are ''lucky'' enough to brush against it ( big and very costly mistake making a whole table set and finishing it with this piece of $hit thing)

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

I am not a fan of Briwax, but it does have its uses, it its most useful on the stripped pine look but as you have discovered it is no good on furniture that you are going to handle. Fiddles sell a product called Protex which is designed to seal in a wax finish, it might be worth your while checking it out. For my money, I would wash off the wax and start again with a shellac, oil, waxoil or varnish. Waxoil would probably give the results you want and my lands do a coloured range if you want to alter or match a particular shade.

 

[undergroundhunter]

After using Briwax and not rally being impressed bought some of this http://goo.gl/MVqifo for a clock I made. My wife watches salvage hunter and I noticed Drew uses Fiddes, so does The English Polisher on YouTube, I now know why. I put on one coat and buffed off with a cloth I can now see my reflection on the panel, it feels great and does not leave finder prints. Amazing wax, won't be using anything else in the future.

Matt

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Briwax? ... filthy stuff. I use it on the table of my bandsaw, it's good for that.

 

[sitefive]

After using Briwax and not rally being impressed bought some of this http://goo.gl/MVqifo for a clock I made. My wife watches salvage hunter and I noticed Drew uses Fiddes, so does The English Polisher on YouTube, I now know why. I put on one coat and buffed off with a cloth I can now see my reflection on the panel, it feels great and does not leave finder prints. Amazing wax, won't be using anything else in the future.

Matt

does it also comes off easily so isn't any good for furniture that will get used a lot and heavily?

 

[sitefive]

I am not a fan of Briwax, but it does have its uses, it its most useful on the stripped pine look but as you have discovered it is no good on furniture that you are going to handle. Fiddles sell a product called Protex which is designed to seal in a wax finish, it might be worth your while checking it out. For my money, I would wash off the wax and start again with a shellac, oil, waxoil or varnish. Waxoil would probably give the results you want and my lands do a coloured range if you want to alter or match a particular shade.

Ordered some osmo polyx hardwax oil samples to test them out,
It just sucks that there are hundreds of 5star reviews for that briwax stuff Yet it's still total crap... :| Sure it dries fast and some shades are decent looking.
Have probably wasted few weeks because of this product alone making sample stuff to take pictures off & than sell and now have to do it all over again and find a new product range because of the new discovery of actually using the furniture myself being covered in this piece of $hit

 

[lurker]

All part of the process called learning
Its called buyer beware

Who gave it 5 stars
I certainly would not spend £70 on an unknown unless I had a recommendation from a trusted source

I seem to remember you had a similar rant a few weeks ago about jigsaw blades :roll:

 

[rafezetter]

All I can suggest Site5 is that before you go headlong again into something you are not sure of - ask here, you might get differing views on a product, but they will never knowingly steer you wrong, and buying a whole bunch of different shades of a product without fully testing it is, if I'm honest, just foolish. I know it may have gotten 5 stars, but you don't know just how many of those votes are from basic users who don't know any different.

As lurker said - it's human to get very frustrated with something, but repeated poorly disguised swearing isn't going to do you any favours in the long run with other members who may be able to help, but don't want to wade through a torrent to read what you have to say.

It may be worth attempting to return the waxes you have used under the "the colour inside do not match the description" if you are outside the 14 day statutory limit - if they refuse a return try an exchange.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yeah ... when I try something new, I get a small tin first. But then, I'm one of those odd people who read the details on jigsaw blade packets ...

 

[sitefive]

haha but truly those bosch jigsaw blades were tat compared to dewalt ones even tho everyone said they are ok,maybe I had just bought fake bosch ones..who knows..
Learning curve it is.. First used the wax on some shelving/stuff which isn't touched daily and doesn't have high traffic and it was ok, kept buying different shades for other stuff all worked ok However I had not tested it on a furniture where you sit on , The reason it gets 5stars everywhere is because that's just general public and not 1 of them are making actual furniture just using it on some tat probably where it's OK!
have to remind myself again to stop reading the online reviews on sites where they sell the stuff.

 

[Alexam]

Did you seal the timber with anything before using the wax, or put it straight onto thre timber? I have used that wax AFTER sealing and it has come up well and not caused any marks to rub off, but I don't believe it is wax that can be put directly on raw timber. Other waxes are made for that purpose.

Alex

 

[blackrodd]

Did you seal the timber with anything before using the wax, or put it stratight onto thre timber? I have used that wax AFTER sealing and it has come up well and not caused any marks to rub off, but I don't believe it is wax that an be put directly on raw timber. Other waxes are made for that purpose.

Alex

+1 For the above, I believe a sanding sealer is required before Bri waxing.
Rodders

 

[Matt@]

another NO for briwax from me, apart from anything its stinks. Its too solventy ie goes off too fast for anything other than feeding bare wood IMO. I've gone through just about all the waxes available over the years and each wax works best on different applications each with their own characteristics. Another crap product IMO is black bison liberon? and if you thought Briwax had bad colours wait till you use BB! I've always used Mylands or Harrells depending on the the job but for a good all round wax I am now veering back toward Fiddes mellow range. For something a bit different try Lake One - its very soft and the easiest wax to apply out of all of them...

 

[Knot Competent]

[/quote]For the above, I believe a sanding sealer is required before Bri waxing.
Rodders[/quote]

Is a sanding sealer a different animal to a coat of Danish oil?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

In the sense that s/s is specifically designed to be sanded, yes, but but for the purpose of sealing under Briwax there's possibly little difference - Danish would still seal.

 

[chipmunk]

I doubt that this is a sealer issue though because the OP is complaining that the polish is rubbing off.
I could be wrong but from my experience sanding sealers are there to prevent the migration of the wax into the timber and away from the surface.

The original Briwax is one of the few products that are formulated to include toluene which I think is the cause of the stink.

Perhaps too much wax is being applied by the OP?

I favour Renaissance Wax which has a higher melting point than Briwax and shouldn't wipe off as easily.

Just some ideas
HTH
Jon

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I know Briwax needs to be on and off again in minutes, otherwise it's a pig. Afaik microcrystalline hasn't any sort of depth when used as a polish in its own right, unlike beeswax etc.