How do you measure up to fit a door?

[Jacob]

....
The SA door came as a standard, (Pre-metric) hence the reason I matched it to the old one. However, that still doesn't explain why the new door, being exactly the same size and shape,

Simple - it wasn't exactly the same size and shape!
You'd probably find that the old door wasn't a perfect fit to start with. Maybe not noticeable unless you went round with feeler gauge, straight edges etc. Even the edges would not necessarily be square. Then when you copy it there would be a normal level of error compounding this. And so on.
A lot of woodwork procedure is about eliminating error - the rod being the prime example, fitting by repeated offerings-up being another.

 

[Benchwayze]

Well Jacob it certainly isn't quite right now, as the the jamb has since bowed, and the latch just about goes home! (Clearly it needs re-casing, but since the decision to move the door, during the kitchen refit, it will have to do.) The house is a 1971 build, so I am hoping I can preserve the architraves. If not I'll have to mould some new ones myself!

 

[hunggaur]

I'm even lazier Bob, if the existing door fits I remove the furniture, clamp it to the new door and use a router with a guided cutter to cut to size. Even with a slightly poor fitting old door with a certain amount of adjustment it can still be used as a template.

Roy.

yep you know it will fit every time,

if i need to make adjustment to new door larger, smaller in square out of square to fit the frame i draw round the old door on the floor and then ad the extra i need onto the full size drawing and then make the door to the patten, works every time for me

jon

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I mark from the existing door, but first make a note on the door where the gap it out.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

I'd use the old door as a rough guide, but the idea is that the new door should be a better fit than the old one, so it has to be fitted to the hole.

 

[MIGNAL]

Jacob has it right with his first post. We also scribed using a pencil/compass when frames were bowed down the hinge length. Using this method you can get the hinge side fit bang on without continually offering the door up to the jamb.

 

[maltrout512]

The SA door came as a standard, (Pre-metric) hence the reason I matched it to the old one. However, that still doesn't explain why the new door, being exactly the same size and shape, (Even if it was a trapezoid) was leaving a meeting gap that was twice the size of the gap for the old door. Which wasn't acceptable. (The hanging stile was okay). As I adopted the same procedure everywhere else in the house, without problem, then I can only assume I didn't match the doors properly, or the frame was out of plane and out of square.

Were you sure you had the old door laid the right way around when put on top of the new door. Just my thought.

 

[Racers]

A few years ago, I bought a new door for the kitchen. (Not that there was anything wrong with the old one. SWIMBO just wanted a change.) The old door fitted perfectly and I used it as a template.

When I had the two doors identical, I double-checked and then with the new door exactly the same size, and not 'in wind', I started to hang it. It wouldn't fit. Explain that someone? I can't.

I am now going to move the door anyhow, to give a longer worktop space in the kitchen. This involves knocking through the wall and bricking up the old space, so I'm getting in a Pro, and it won't be my problem, but it's always mystified me. :?

I gave the door away, as the only place I could store it was in my shop and it got in the way! :mrgreen:

The only thing I can think off is the bevel on the lock side must have been big, and you marked from the narrow side of the door.

Pete

 

[foxhunter]

Many thanks for all the suggestions. It looks like fitting the door to the hole is the way to go.
Has anyone needed to change the hole where the diagonals are unequal?

 

[Digit]

Has anyone needed to change the hole where the diagonals are unequal?

Yes.

Roy.

 

[Benchwayze]

A few years ago, I bought a new door for the kitchen. (Not that there was anything wrong with the old one. SWIMBO just wanted a change.) The old door fitted perfectly and I used it as a template.

When I had the two doors identical, I double-checked and then with the new door exactly the same size, and not 'in wind', I started to hang it. It wouldn't fit. Explain that someone? I can't.

I am now going to move the door anyhow, to give a longer worktop space in the kitchen. This involves knocking through the wall and bricking up the old space, so I'm getting in a Pro, and it won't be my problem, but it's always mystified me. :?

I gave the door away, as the only place I could store it was in my shop and it got in the way! :mrgreen:

The only thing I can think off is the bevel on the lock side must have been big, and you marked from the narrow side of the door.

Pete

Possible... I've been known to make mistakes like that!

 

[lincs1963]

I hang hundreds of doors every year, both new build and replacements in refurbs. On refurbs we rip out all the old doors and then start hanging the new ones, so we don't use them as patterns. I just offer the new door into the opening, get the hinge side to fit and then hinge and hang the door. Then its just a case of skimmimg the clapping side until a good fit is attained. In extreme cases the arcs may need popping off to allow wedges to be used. On new build it's very rare that the doors get planed, the casings or linings are adjusted to suit the door.

 

[byrnsey]

We hang doors all the time. If replacing an old door we take it off, make sure hinge side of the frame is plumb and streight (otherwise it will swing open or closed). Measure top, middle and bottom and plane tight to size. Put it in the frame and wedge it tight to hinge side and the head of the frame. Using a 4' loose pin hindge run it up the closing side using the 2leafs of the hinge and do the same for the top this time only using one leaf, and mark the hinges onto the door from the frame. Always works for me and leaves a perfect gap right around the door (2p). I always bevel the closing side slightly plane the sharp edges.

HTH

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

The problem with using the old door as a temple even more so with a guided router bit is the taper. The "proper" way to hang a door and keep the gaps looking to a min is to taper the lock side slightly. This is so that it will not bind with the frame when opening and closing the door.

So if you use a door as a template to draw around you maybe pushing your pencil up to the lower side of the taper, so when you cut you have already cut it too short. Same with the router guide bearing on a trimming bit. It will follow part of the taper thats lower than the highest point.

Time maybe money but if the door wasn't fitting correctly to start with you are only fitting a door that fits just as incorrectly or worse. Using a door as a template for me maybe would save 10min but by taking that extra 10-20min I know I have a door that fits perfectly and im not just mimicking past trimming mistakes.

Benchwayze I hope that helps with understanding why your door didn't fit. Another explanation could be hinges. You may have used thinner hinges or even cut the hinge to a greater depth then needed/required.

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

(2p).

Best tip you can remember when hanging doors. Have a 2 pence coin to hand to make sure the gaps are correct and to wedge between the door and top of frame when lifting the door to mark for the hinges.

Next time you have a 2p coin, drill a hole near the edge and put it on your keys. :wink:

 

[Benchwayze]

Tut-tut Hud! You mustn't deface the coin of the Realm. It's Norty!

PS... I use ice-lolly sticks for cabinets.

 

[Lons]

I bought a pack of these plastic packers a few years ago http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws% ... 950/p46640 I made up 6 lots of threaded 1 of each size on to string through the "tab" bits and it's amazing how often they're used. Work really well for door fitting as easy to handle.
Bob