How do you make profiled edges on table top's?

[Colin C]

A stunning argument for having a set of each, eh? :wink:

Cheers, Alf

You just cant help your self can you :roll: :wink:

The thing is I cant think of a better reason 8-[

 

[Alf]

A stunning argument for having a set of each, eh? :wink:

Cheers, Alf

You just cant help your self can you :roll: :wink:

Nope :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

Moulding planes tend to be square bedded. A profile that works off the edge has the square bedded blade naturally slicing against the grain. Its not a naturally clean cut.

The obvious and maybe not quite so common exceprtion is rounds and hollows which were often offered in square bedded or skewed

Scrit

Not always a trivial choice though - the skew gives a superior cut across grain, BUT generates undesirable sideways forces.

When you trying to (e.g.) follow part of a linen fold panel, it's hard enough keeping the plane "on track" without having side forces to fight.

BugBear

Oh yes. Have you tried it have ya....working a plane along an edge with a skewed blade.........the desireable skew direction in this case (working a table top edge)actually is benificial.......it draws the planes fence in tight. And because the cut tends to be far cleaner the plane is easier to control....

No profiled moulding planes I've come accross I designed for this.....If there's a skew, then they tend to skew in the wrong direction. Why ? I don't know for sure......guessing its only to fascilitate the shaving flow.

The impression I've got is these planes are meant for with grain work. Which means mitres for a turn of direction. Which looks nice I reakon.

To try and see what I mean. Just pick up say a sash or ovolo plane. Look down at the blade (wedge side)....whilst holding the plane beside the end of a piece of scrap and visualise how the blade is cutting. Its actually looking up against the grain when the plane body moves cross grain......makes the cut hard going and the result far from ideal.

Exactly the same issues as cutting sliding dovetails. The orientation of the blade is crucial for a good cut. Here.....
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... hp?t=33429
In there somewhere I've attempted to try and describe it, with a drawknife.

yes, Bugbear......its not a 'pretty' plane. But it doesn't have to be.....try and understand the concepts, cause understanding it, should resolve this debate.

Here's another one.....same concepts described again.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... hp?t=34409

 

[bugbear]

When you trying to (e.g.) follow part of a linen fold panel, it's hard enough keeping the plane "on track" without having side forces to fight.

BugBear

Oh yes. Have you tried it have ya....working a plane along an edge with a skewed blade.........the desireable skew direction in this case (working a table top edge)actually is benificial.......it draws the planes fence in tight. And because the cut tends to be far cleaner the plane is easier to control....

Jake - no argument on fenced planes - I have both sash and moving fillisters with skewed blades, and love them both.

I was talking specifically about using a round (or hollow) "freehand" on a complex moulding, following the layout cut (in the hallowed way...) with a plough.

The only guidance the hollow/round has is the workpiece, and if the curvature of the sole is high (i.e. quite flat) the guidance is not terribly positive, so the cut requires quite a lot of care.

Under these (specific) circumstances, the side forces from a skewed blade are not very welcome!

In other circumstances, skew blades are yummy...

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=12106

BugBear

 

[Anonymous]

I was talking specifically about using a round (or hollow) "freehand" on a complex moulding, following the layout cut (in the hallowed way...) with a plough.

The only guidance the hollow/round has is the workpiece, and if the curvature of the sole is high (i.e. quite flat) the guidance is not terribly positive, so the cut requires quite a lot of care.

Under these (specific) circumstances, the side forces from a skewed blade are not very welcome!

In other circumstances, skew blades are yummy...

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=12106

BugBear

My apologies if I got my wires crossed.

I just assumed that be the only reasonable choice I guess.....a fenced plane.

My hat off to anyone who can leave a clean result with a non-fenced moulding plane in a groove cross grain.....regardless wheather it be skewed or not.

Can you get these skewed H&R's anyway that eject shavings out the left side when used right handed , instead of out the right ? ....Cause I think thats what one would need to avoid tearout city.

Nice skewed shooting plane by the way, from that links....bit unsure of the conversation, but I like the recess to take the hand. Thought that was clever.

Have to make sure the fence on the board isn't too high though, or you could take your thumb off !.... I've done that before. :lol: ....well, actually it wastn't funny at the time.

 

[bugbear]

My apologies if I got my wires crossed.

I just assumed that be the only reasonable choice I guess.....a fenced plane.

My hat off to anyone who can leave a clean result with a non-fenced moulding plane in a groove cross grain.....regardless wheather it be skewed or not.

The use I mention (linen fold) is all with-the-grain work.

My point was that skewed blades are not better-without-question-in-all-circumstances.

BugBear

 

[Anonymous]

The use I mention (linen fold) is all with-the-grain work.

My point was that skewed blades are not better-without-question-in-all-circumstances.

BugBear

ok....sure..... guess it went a little off topic and I didn't realise it...

just trying to help on profiling that table top cleanly.