How do I remove the chuck on my Sealy GDM-50A/5/B pillar drill drill?

[MrM]

Heat often helps if they are stubborn. If you have something like a hot air gun, then use that to heat the chuck up first. You can also try putting the biggest hex key you have with the short end clamped in the chuck, then give the long end a sharp downward thump with a hammer, better still put a tube over the key so you can support the far end of the tube, then use something heavy and thin, like the shaft of a big spanner, to tap it downward as close to the chuck as you can. Don't go mad, If a few sharp heavy taps doesn't shift it, then you will have to get some wedges. Don't try and twist it, you will damage the quill guide pin, which runs in the long slot on the side, or you might damage the quill itself.

Thanks!

 

[MrM]

Thank you all for your help and ideas - What a lovely forum. I shall keep you updated!

 

[Sideways]

Do you have a UK source from whom they can be bought (i.e. a stock item)? Thanks.

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As the chuck has RJ6 on it, would it be reasonable to infer that it has a Jacobs number 6 taper on it? If so, that is the pair of wedges he would need (each taper uses a different size pair of wedges).

Rotagrip in Birmingham are a reputable seller if you are shopping for drill and lathe chucks. They are an engineers merchant supplying trade and industry, not a discount seller of hobby tools, so this is a place to shop if you want Vertex or Bison, Jacobs, etc.

See their document here:
https://www.rotagriponline.com/datasheets/Chuckremoval.pdf
They list wedges but don't show stock when I looked.

 

[Fergie 307]

Fergie, you should Not hit it down as that can bend the shaft it should be hit from the side as in rotation of the chuck.

If you do that then you are driving the quill guide pin against the sides of it's slot. This is highly likely to damage either the slot in the quill itself or the pin, neither a good idea. The force should be applied as far as possible straight down, exactly as it would be using wedges, or a MT removal wedge. The important difference being that with the wedges you are applying force as it were in both directions simultaneously to separate the two parts, rather than effectively trying to pull it off the end. So wedges are the best method, but they will often free without them. On the other hand some can stick as though they are welded on
I suppose you could remove the guide pin, then find some way of holding the pulley to stop the shaft turning, if you want to hit it sideways, but of course you also have the rack to consider, that won't take kindly to being forcefully rotated either.

 

[Fergie 307]

And RJ6 - 13 means it has an RJ6 taper and 13mm capacity. Doesn't tell you how the arbour is actually held in the spindle. This could either be a Morse taper, most likely I would think, my much bigger Sealey is MT4 but has a side slot for removal, or it could be screwed in. So the chuck should come off it's own taper, but just be prepared that if you use any method other than the chuck removal wedges, then if it's a MT arbour, you might actually pop the arbour out of the spindle, with it still attached to the chuck. If that is the case you might be better off just getting a new arbour, rather than trying to get the chuck off the existing one.

 

[Phill05]

No you hold the pulley from rotating and hit the chuck sideways then there is NO pressure on the quill register pin.
If the chuck is throw away you can put a shaft in the key hole and hit it or you can tighten a hex bar in the chuck and use a ring spanner on it and hit that sideways, this is all presuming it does not have a hole down the spindle that you could knock out a taper if it has one, it might only be the RJ6 on the end of a solid spindle.

Now wedges work in a different way as they BOTH give equal downward force so no chance of bending the shaft.

 

[Fergie 307]

Bearing in mind that the clearance between the pin and slot ought to be maybe 0.1mm or so I really fail to see how you can hold the spindle sufficiently to prevent that degree of movement. As I say, you could take the pin out to avoid it getting damaged, then hold the pulley with a strap wrench or similar. But the simple fact remains that I am not aware of any correct manner of removing a taper that involves twisting it off, after all that is precisely the movement they are designed to resist. I do agree that if the spindle is hollow then a long bar could be used to knock it out, however that is only if the OP's machine has a taper arbour, which appears to be a bit of an unknown at this stage. As to bending the spindle a few firm taps is certainly not going to do that, unless it's made of cheese. The important thing being to tap as far as possible in line with the spindle, and not go mad. If a few firm taps don't release it, then it's time to order up some wedges.
I think you may be getting confused with the methods for releasing a screw chuck, in that instance your methods are correct, but not for a taper.

 

[ChaiLatte]

They list wedges but don't show stock when I looked.

They have not stocked them for a few years.

Chuck wedges used to be sold by ArcEuroTrade, but they no longer do so.

The only place I know is MSCDirect and they are a special order item.

 

[Keiths Clocks]

if you look on sealeys (sealey.co.uk) website under spares it shows all the component parts of the drill press and prices

 

[Fergie 307]

They have not stocked them for a few years.

Chuck wedges used to be sold by ArcEuroTrade, but they no longer do so.

The only place I know is MSCDirect and they are a special order item.

Depending how wide the arbour is you could probably grind down one of the old fashioned car ball joint splitters. I think the standard angle would probably be too steep on many of them. Again a case of If a few firm taps doesn't do the trick then you might want to take the quill out before giving it some serious welly ! Make sure the flat side is against the quill and the ramped part on the chuck.

 

[Fergie 307]

A quick Google shows some chuck wedges on Amazon, for £47 !!!

 

[Inspector]

A quick Google shows some chuck wedges on Amazon, for £47 !!!

eBay has them for half as much. Might not be as good but probably good enough.

Pete

 

[Fergie 307]

eBay has them for half as much. Might not be as good but probably good enough.

Pete

For the OP if you aren't familiar with them the proper wedges come in pairs, and are U shaped like the ball joint separator but quite thin. You put one in either side between the top of the chuck and the arbour, then squeeze them together with a vice, or even a decent g clamp. The advantage is they put no strain or force on anything else, and they usually work pretty well. So if fairly gentle taps by other methods don't work, they are the way to go.

 

[Orraloon]

This video gives some idea of how to track down what is causing the runout.
Shop Shorts - Drill Press Chuck Runout and Replacement - YouTube
Regards
John

 

[Fergie 307]

For the OP if you aren't familiar with them the proper wedges come in pairs, and are U shaped like the ball joint separator but quite thin. You put one in either side between the top of the chuck and the arbour, then squeeze them together with a vice, or even a decent g clamp. The advantage is they put no strain or force on anything else, and they usually work pretty well. So if fairly gentle taps by other methods don't work, they are the way to go.

Hadn't realised Sideways had already posted a video showing them in use

 

[MrM]

Update! Well I finally got it off - it was very stubborn and I used a mixture of a pair of wedges and a joint splitter (actually dismantled most of the machine and dropped the spindle off the bottom to get better access!). Once off I could see that it’s the spindle that is bent and causing the wobble. I’m not sure it’s worth continuing to try to fix it myself as I presume it’ll need replacing and I think that’ll be beyond my ability - plus I’m not sure how to order the correct one, or even if I can as it’s an old model. Thank you for all your help, I’ve learned a lot! I’m going to look for a cheap new one now I think.