How accurate should a SCMS be?

[Colin C]

i would have seriously considered the eurekazone rail system not least because it saves a bunch of space.

Yes, I was also impressed with Shady's review of this and it looks tempting. Still debating whether to get a circular saw and/or something to guide it, would definitely be useful (see above workarounds!). With a rail like this, what's the lower limit to the length of crosscuts you can safely make - looks like it might be a bit precarious on a small plank?



Regards, Matthew

Hi Matthew
I also have the same eurekazone rail system as Shady and you can get smaller rails for cross cutting
Have a look at they web site to see what it has to offer
http://www.eurekazone.com/ ( look in the photo gallery ) and you can see the help he gives the buyers of his system on
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/forumdisplay.php?f=26
For me it has replaced a poor TS that I was happy to get out of my workshop ( one of the space and because it was crap/ dangerous)

It may take me a little while to get quicker with it but it is also safer for me ( I have been very lucky as I have had two fightsw with TS and just lost skin #-o ), so at least for now it does what I want

I have been cutting up some 2" beech with it for new rail for some chair, I have also make a knock down frame for me to use it on or you can buy his table.
Ps I am not gettting pay by them for this ( :-k 8-[ )

 

[ivan]

We've been pleasantly surprised at the (mitre) accuracy of our DW706. Sliding saws seemed much less rigid in comparison. Pity the bevel angle scales are so small on all? mitre saws

 

[devonwoody]

My neighbour wanted two pieces of timber cut last night, 33"x 2" x5mm thick.
This I accomplished by planing one face and two edges off on the P/T and then cut off the 5mm thickness on my Triton workcentre. I've had my Triton outfit 4 years and I still think it has merits above some table saws and can cross cut.

 

[matthew]

Just a quick semi-follow-up... just popped down to the local tool shop to take a look at some mitre saws - they mainly do Metabo & DeWalt stuff. Mainly confirmed my suspicions about sliders: Metabo KGS255 and KGS303 both have more flex along the slide than I'd be happy with. However KGS301 is absolutely rock solid along the slide, but it's a monster of a thing, it was all I could do just to plunge it!

Dewalt DW707 seems pretty, good, very solid and more compact slide mechanism. But I'll probably end up with a non-sliding saw like the Makita LS1040 or maybe Hitachi C10FCE (anyone got either of these?) and work around the narrower cut width.

Thanks again for all the replies!

Matthew[/url]

 

[Neil]

Hi Matthew,

I've had the LS1040 for 5 or 6 years now. Couldn't recommend it highly enough (as long as you take the limited capacities into account) - accuracy was spot-on when I got it and it has stayed accurate since then, despite doing a lot of work over the years! Good price now, too - it was well over £200 IIRC.

Cheers,
Neil

 

[Alf]

Und haf you not considered der Bosch, Mein Herr?

Cheers, Alf

Who likes her's - a lot.

 

[LyNx]

Is the LS1040 a soft start?

I have a cheap saw that i pretty accurate but it jumps off the table when you start it.

Andy

 

[devonwoody]

I cut some corner mitre joints on my Axminster AWSMS 10 this morning (making another secret compartment box) and if you take care and clamp everything down I get reasonable mitres for box making with this gear. Around £120 when I purchased with a 60t Cmt blade.
Everyday site use might be beyond this machine perhaps?
Anyway Pictures attached of the set up and glue up today.

.

 

[Neil]

Is the LS1040 a soft start?

My vintage isn't, anyway. Doesn't jump off the table, though!

Cheers,
Neil

 

[Nick W]

I saw (geddit?) this recently, and am seriously tempted. Not only does it have the Flexi Guide Rail in the box but also a neat cross cut guide which does angles, giving both bevels and mitres.

 

[matthew]

I've had the LS1040 for 5 or 6 years now. Couldn't recommend it highly enough

That's useful to know - thanks. Seems to be going for around 160 now which seems pretty good.I've actually used one once or twice - not long enough to form an opinion, but I do remember that as noted, it does have a bit of a kick to it when fired up!

Und haf you not considered der Bosch, Mein Herr?

Aha, Alf, I saw your glowing comments on your Bosch when searching on the subject. How ridgid to you feel it to be along the length of the slide? And have you seen/used the non-sliding version (which might be more within my price range at the moment) - hopefully it's up to the same standard?

BTW devonwoody, thanks for posting your pics. The piece you are cutting could be handled by a non-sliding saw, do you find you use the slide much? I realised that I use it very rarely on mine, hence considering a fixed one.
M

 

[Alf]

How ridgid to you feel it to be along the length of the slide?

Very good - the whole question of SCMS accuracy came as a surprise, if that's any indication. :wink:

And have you seen/used the non-sliding version (which might be more within my price range at the moment) - hopefully it's up to the same standard?

Alas, I know it not. But Bosch's design folks seem to really be thinking about what you want in a mitre saw a good deal, as far as I can tell.

Cheers, Alf

 

[engineer one]

nick, not yet had a look in the flesh, but cannot really see what it
does that the ksp40 does not do. same basic track, flexible,
40 has depth of cut of about 40mm also, decent plunge and riving knife.

also fits into systainer so maybe look at that too.
paul :wink:

 

[engineer one]

ok nick had a chance to investigate the kss 300 a bit more.

it is a slight upgrade on the ksp 40, BUT, the cross cut capability
is limited to only about 300mm. the so called rip is the same 1.4 track
as on the ksp 40. the base plate of the two saws is slightly different
to allow the spring back to occur on the 300.

buying a kss40 only gives you 400 mm cross cut width, although it
does give you 55mm depth of cut.

for what we are talking about, i am not convinced the cross cut facility
is long enough, certainly not for boards, although skirting etc would
be fine, and more portable than my dw708, heavy b****y thing plus
its stand.

as i said yesterday, i cut some 12mm mdf veneered boards with the
ksp 40 and its track, and it worked fine, good finish.

anyway that's my quick look. same saw basically extra cross cut, but
not much.

paul :wink:

 

[Corset]

i have an Hitachi f10FSH the laser version. It is buit like a brick toilet house thing. It seems incredibly accurate. It is up to the normal hitchi standard ie tank like. I might have to sell it though as it takes up space i could use. Shame as i have only had it for 6months. I bought it rashly from axminster for one job but i need space. The depth of cut i very good and it is also has an adjustable fence which is handy. Seemed less plastically than some of it competitors. I **** the green colour best though. Laser is easily adjustable and the dust extraction is not bad either.