Honing bevel on a chisel with hollow grind

[farlsborough]

Seeing conflicting opinions on this (yes, I know, hard to believe!) so thought I’d do a poll. Even if you do everything by feel/eye, I’m interested to know for those who use a bench grinder whether you hone at the same angle as your primary bevel (and so end up polishing some bevel heel as well as tip) or either you try to create a larger angle on your honing bevel.

And, if you are aiming for the same angle, whether this is larger than the shallowish 25° many primary bevels are ground to.

Cheers!

 

[Yojevol]

Seeing conflicting opinions on this (yes, I know, hard to believe!) so thought I’d do a poll. Even if you do everything by feel/eye, I’m interested to know for those who use a bench grinder whether you hone at the same angle as your primary bevel (and so end up polishing some bevel heel as well as tip) or either you try to create a larger angle on your honing bevel.

And, if you are aiming for the same angle, whether this is larger than the shallowish 25° many primary bevels are ground to.

Cheers!

Just voted for 'some other' My system, if you could call it that, is more random than crazy. Whatever it is, it gets the job done.
Brian

 

[--Tom--]

Depends…..

But in your case I’d rest the bevel on a stone so the heel and tip contact and hone lightly. If that edge stands up to whatever you use it for then you can happily continue. If the edge fails then thicken it up with a steeper bevel, if it doesn’t perform well I’d drop the angle a bit in the grinder and go again.

 

[Jacob]

Ooh a sharpening thread!
I put my chisel or plane blade on the (oil) stone at about 30º and push down/forwards forcefully and dip it slightly as it goes. Ends up with a 30º edge and a slightly rounded bevel. Burr taken off face flat on stone.
It's dead easy and you can do it with as much force/speed as you can muster.
If you do it routinely you never need to go to the grindstone as you are honing and backing off in one operation.
If you do need to grind it's exactly the same movement but on a coarser oil stone, but you don't take off the burr until back on a fine stone.
It's basically how everybody did it before they started using jigs (1980 or thereabouts) and sharpening became difficult and slow.
PS use whole face of stone end to end and/or skewed - to keep it nice and flat. Never needs actual flattening, which is another plus.

 

[Daniel2]

Ooh a sharpening thread!
I put my chisel or plane blade on the (oil) stone at about 30º and push down/forwards forcefully and dip it slightly as it goes. Ends up with a 30º edge and a slightly rounded bevel. Burr taken off face flat on stone.
It's dead easy and you can do it with as much force/speed as you can muster.
If you do it routinely you never need to go to the grindstone as you are honing and backing off in one operation.
If you do need to grind it's exactly the same movement but on a coarser oil stone, but you don't take off the burr until back on a fine stone.
It's basically how everybody did it before they started using jigs (1980 or thereabouts) and sharpening became difficult.
PS use whole face of stone end to end and/or skewed - to keep it nice and flat. Never needs actual flattening, which is another plus.

To be fair, I don't think we've had a sharpening thread for
a while now.

 

[farlsborough]

To be fair, I don't think we've had a sharpening thread for
a while now.

I did wonder if starting a sharpening thread was like playing Stairway… in a guitar shop

 

[Adam W.]

I've no idea what angle they are, but they cut wood good enough.

I don't do micro bevels either, as I don't see the point in them.

 

[Orraloon]

I did wonder if starting a sharpening thread was like playing Stairway… in a guitar shop

Depending how you sharpen it could be a bit like playing stairway. The first bit, the next bit and the bit after that. Dont know what they were on but too complex for rock n roll.
Regards
John

 

[bazzason]

I don't do micro bevels either, as I don't see the point in them.

I only use them to speed up my workflow, as touching up a micro bevel is just a couple of strokes on the stone rather than regrinding the whole primary bevel every time.

I will then regrind between jobs when the micro bevel is not that micro anymore!

 

[Argus]

I enjoy a prolonged and heated sharpening discussion as well as the next guy..... but in essence you start off with a pointed bit of metal, then you rub it up and down a bit on a stone-type thing to make it cut wood.

When it stops cutting bits of wood, you rub it up and down again......

It's the pointed thing on the end that important.

 

[Jacob]

I enjoy a prolonged and heated sharpening discussion as well as the next guy..... but in essence you start off with a pointed bit of metal, then you rub it up and down a bit on a stone-type thing to make it cut wood.

When it stops cutting bits of wood, you rub it up and down again......

It's the pointed thing on the end that important.

All very true.
But bevelmania is fairly harmless and supports the gadget industry!

 

[xy mosian]

I've no idea what angle they are, but they cut wood good enough.

I don't do micro bevels either, as I don't see the point in them.

Spot on brilliant.
gf