re Ian down london way's question, you can get one-way roller bearings quite cheaply. Do a Google search for just that. Also use for anti-kickback replacement for feather boards on routers; there's a commercial product using them. The bearing and axle need tight fits of course, pressing into wood would probably not do.
Home Made Drum Sander - WIP
- Thread starter kinsella
- Start date
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kinsella
Established Member
monkeybiter":358u7llc said:
I think the penny has dropped, thats why its off centre. i took the jaw out and didn't put them back the right way.
kinsella
Established Member
MusicMan":1zbkojdm said:
interesting idea. I suppose you could mount the bearing into a metal housing and then fix that to the sides. Then wrap the shaft in flexible rubber which would then push it down. The problem with my design is that the bed moves in an arc as you rise and fall so unless the shaft was spring loaded it would not be parallel with the bottom of the drum.
Still a cheap solution to anti-kick back. Now to put my thinking cap on to see how to overcome the above, but noting i have minimal engineering tools. Mind you i do collect a Clarke milling machine tomorrow
kinsella
Established Member
I managed to true the pulley wheel today. Thanks to Monkeybiter for reminding me about chuck jaws. The vibration is now almost gone. See the video link. https://youtu.be/VwhpMX-pmNQ. Its almost gone and i don't think you can even see it on the video. Only a few minor bits left to do.
Mind you, today reminded me of Kenny Everetts Reg Prescott. https://youtu.be/lo7l1QAe_es. As i doubled up the bed thickness, see the photos. The rigidity makes the bed pretty unbendable. I put the gauge on the shaft and played about with the height adjustment. The bed more or less stays level. Its when i turn the knobs it goes out of true, as you tighten, one rises and the other falls. I also waxed the top. It turns out the machine i made has multi functions!
1. Saw Dust Generator. If anyone is in the market for creating fog like conditions with wood. Then this machine is for you!
2. Wooden Projectile Machine. If you want to launch boards at varying angles at high speed. Then this machine is definitely also for you!
Lessons today.
1. Build a flipping dust hood before I die of dust inhalation.
2. Solve the anti kick back problem. A very unforgiving machine!!!!! My rule of feeding from the side is sound. But I'm bored of picking up shrapnel.
Mind you, today reminded me of Kenny Everetts Reg Prescott. https://youtu.be/lo7l1QAe_es. As i doubled up the bed thickness, see the photos. The rigidity makes the bed pretty unbendable. I put the gauge on the shaft and played about with the height adjustment. The bed more or less stays level. Its when i turn the knobs it goes out of true, as you tighten, one rises and the other falls. I also waxed the top. It turns out the machine i made has multi functions!
1. Saw Dust Generator. If anyone is in the market for creating fog like conditions with wood. Then this machine is for you!
2. Wooden Projectile Machine. If you want to launch boards at varying angles at high speed. Then this machine is definitely also for you!
Lessons today.
1. Build a flipping dust hood before I die of dust inhalation.
2. Solve the anti kick back problem. A very unforgiving machine!!!!! My rule of feeding from the side is sound. But I'm bored of picking up shrapnel.
Attachments
kinsella
Established Member
Final stages. Dust hood now finished and make a massive difference. Its gone from making a dust cloud to nearly no visible dust. The dust hood needs painting as its MDF and then to consider the kickback problem. Leave it or fix it? that is the question.
Drum sander in use.
https://youtu.be/Du8yP6l2dus
Drum sander in use.
https://youtu.be/Du8yP6l2dus
Attachments
mickthetree
Established Member
Wow! That looks and sounds like a really robust machine. Well done.
Do you get any unevenness on the surface if you pull the board through unevenly? People suggest that if you leave it sanding in one spot this will occur. I think it must come down to how much you are trying to remove in a pass though.
Would you do anything differently now you have made one?
Cant wait to get working on mine!
Do you get any unevenness on the surface if you pull the board through unevenly? People suggest that if you leave it sanding in one spot this will occur. I think it must come down to how much you are trying to remove in a pass though.
Would you do anything differently now you have made one?
Cant wait to get working on mine!
kinsella
Established Member
mickthetree":1fhgnrnb said:
Yes, it does come down to technique, if you stop you will get a snipe type effect, but its not as big as a planner, so a finish sand should get rid of it. Its odd the larger the removal and when i say larger i mean you can't put it through the gap. This dictates the speed you can push it through and give you a better finish that a light pass. The consistency of finish is good and i must admit i was a tad worried that i might have to put a power feed on it. But its good enough i think. Some of the boards showed no snipe and i could have gone straight to finish.
i ran through around 30 oak boards at circa 5.75mm thick using the 240g sand paper and its as smooth a a babies whatit. Perfect.!
What would i do different? I think i'd add a power feed and anti kick back but both of those are rather large engineering problems. As i'm going to use occasionally, that may be a solution too far. Time in use will tell. If you have the engineering knowhow. Then go for it. Otherwise as you can see this took me a few weekends to turn from drawing board to working model. I think i'd still be on the drawing board if i wanted to do power feed and anti kick back.
PS. Mind you i get a load salvaged kit tomorrow. Motors, milling machine, Startrite saw, drill press. Etc so this may not be over just yet :lol:
No skills
Established Member
Wow that's quite the project, very well done.
