Hinging doors with bevelled top edge on sloping cabinets

[Simon C]

Hi all. Anyone who's out there today and can answer the following I would be really grateful as I can find no similar examples out there on the web..

I am building some oak veneer wardrobes into a bedroom with a sloping ceiling (back on to the slope) so that the back of the cabinet slopes at 45 degrees. They have inset doors with top edge cut at 45 degrees so it matches the slope of the cabinet where it makes contact when closed (see attached photo).

This hadn't occurred to me but when using blum inset hinges the hinged edge of the door actually ends up inside the cabinet as it opens. In normal cupboards/doors this doesn't matter but with a sloping rear to the cupboard the top edge of the door fouls and hits the sloping back of the cupboard on opening.

I'm sure someone else must have come across this issue before and have a fix. I was going to drill recesses into the sloping rear of the cupboard to accommodate the snagging corner but its not ideal and wondered whether the solution might be a different hinge - there are so many out there after all...

Yes of course I could avoid the slanted top door completely by putting in a small beveled vertical oak filling strip at the top edge of the frame or cut the top off the cupboard square and put a white painted vertical filler strip above it blending in with the ceiling but these aren't the way I'd prefer to go if there is a fix for the hinging issue as is.

Welcome any thoughts!

Simon

PS Yes i did put the hinge hole in the wrong place first time round too. You'll see why..

 

[Cabinetman]

I would certainly avoid trying to bevel the tops of the doors to close against a sloping ceiling, I think it would drive you insane trying to make it look right across a few doors.
I would put a piece of oak in across the top for the doors to close inside (inset) of. It will need to be scribed to fit the ceiling which will be a whole lot easier than trying it with the tops of the doors.
Best of luck btw, I learned the hard way not to try to build in rather than make the item and then fit into place and trim around to cover the anomaly’s.
Ian

 

[Doug71]

Zero protrusion hinges should work as they throw the door forward and outwards.


https://www.trade-hinges.co.uk/soft-close-zero-protrusion-hinge-2392-p.asp

The link is for overlay doors, if yours are inset I think you need the hinges for half overlay fitted on a 9mm spaced mounting plate.

 

[Simon C]

Thanks Doug. That seems to be the way. Blum suggested 125 or 155 degree zero protrusion overlay hinges with an 18mm spaced plate to adapt for inset use.

Ps thanks also Ian but fortunately we're talking carcasses here so not trying to close door directly against the ceiling

 

[Jacob]

Use a different design of hinge?
You've given yourself a design problem. The trad solution would be to fit a face frame first and then hang doors in the normal way, with normal hinges. Effectively a screen with doors in it.