Hidden fixings

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BarbaraT

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I'm just thinking about building a sofa inspired by this one..
Any idea how you do this joint?

Wooden dowels and lots of glue?
I wondered about trying to hide cam bolts behind the custions underneith some wooden plugs, but it's didn't seem the best.

Just wondering if anyone had any suggestions?

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"Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness."​

 

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I would guess glue and dowels. It might take away the simplicity but a really nice dovetail or two would be much stronger.

I like the idea of the design but I wonder how many times I'd walk into one of those corners!
 
I found a clue.. Has anyone seen these for sale?
That pattern of bed fitting for attaching side rails to headboards and footboards I have only ever seen for sale in the USA, never in the UK where the nearest equivalent is the Noval K version, which is quite different and won't work as you show in your image.

You might be able to use a keyhole plate from suppliers such as Häfele as a substitute for that bed fitting you showed.

Alternatively, use a woodworking joint, as you've already considered, but add to your list a tongue and housing or, as has already been suggested, consider something stronger such as a a dovetail joint, perhaps even a secret mitred dovetail if your skills are up to it. Slainte.
 
I found a clue.. Has anyone seen these for sale?

I like the place to put my coffee that I leave rings on the wood before knocking it off when i stand up all over the floor


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This is the best i've found so far
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https://www.timberfixit.co.uk/products/uv-t-timber-to-timber-connectors?variant=40993956036759
Those are interesting. I did a quick search for something similar based on the keyhole suggestion above and I came across these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17334281...7779&msclkid=380e52dd560c1abc8c5935f9a1cd8932 no idea how suitable they would be but look like they would be easier to fit.

The trouble with either is that you would be fixing into end grain on the one panel. Although using nice long screws would hopefully get around it.
 
All the stress at that corner is at the top, if I were to make that I would mirror the lower section by beefing up the top of those two planks also incorporating a chunky Dovetail in the beefy bit.
The other problem with that ill thought out design is the left hand end doesn’t have any support at all !! It will flex and eventually fail with being leant on.
Ian
 
I've just finished building 20 dovetailed drawers....The idea of buying a nice large stainless fixing I can bury in the plank currently seems very appealing.
As you say all the force is at the top.. I can also screw the bottom through the base plank.

I've broken a few of the plastic button type fixings in the past.. Partially my own fault as i had a panel that screwed on at the bottom with buttons at the top, It was very easy to break wnen taking it apart.
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Nice dovetails!

Another option, although not hidden, would be to do like the traditional table base joints where a tongue passes through the back board and is secured with a wedge.
 
All the stress at that corner is at the top, if I were to make that I would mirror the lower section by beefing up the top of those two planks also incorporating a chunky Dovetail in the beefy bit.
The other problem with that ill thought out design is the left hand end doesn’t have any support at all !! It will flex and eventually fail with being leant on.
Ian
The first joint is pretty much a hidden French cleat in metal, you could make a row of mini cleats down the channel, you can glue them together on final fit

I'd probably just dowel it if you don't want the look/effort of dovetails though, Cabinetman is right, it's an iffy design with weak points right at places where people would grab to sit/stand. No easy solution to that unless you do a frame and panel and extend the stiles to mortise through the base.
 
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