Help please with my Denbigh pillar drill

[MikeG.]

Very kind of you Keith, but as you say, I have a couple of decent local hobby engineers who can make stuff like this. I suspect this will end up being something I find in one of my nuts 'n bolts boxes.

 

[Ttrees]

I had a quick look for the fun of it, but couldn't find what I'm referring to
The best description I could find was either a depth stop nut,quick release nut, or button thread.
You can get a fancier version for engineering but they aint cheap

Surely these can be sourced for cheap?

 

[Inspector]

Grizzly have them under the name of "Quick Threaded Stop Collars". I doubt they ship to the UK but perhaps an American member can order some and send it to you. Cheaper than what I would pay getting it here to send on, but if you are stuck I can do it.

Some here too. https://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading- ... 33708.aspx

The fancier kind. Spare part for a Bridgeport milling machine. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/09506114

I also came across people using a thin rubber washer or O-ring between a pair of nuts. The rubber keeps them snug, thus they don't move.

Pete

 

[MikeG.]

Here's what the solution will be:

Either, a tighter nut, as I had previously. The guy who did the engineering for me is in lock-down, so I won't find my nut in his workshop for at least 12 weeks, so it's going to depend on what I find in my boxes of assorted nuts. Or, a pair of nuts with a compression spring between them of slightly larger diameter than the threaded rod. That will remove all vibration-related movement. There won't be an engineered solution.

 

[MusicMan]

My offer still stands and it can be sent by post. Though a hand-tool guy like you would relish cutting two nuts in half with a hacksaw and filing them flat.

 

[hawkeyefxr]

That's excellent Trevanion. Thank you.

Interesting that the top cover looks original. I'll have to investigate more thoroughly and see why it is fouling. Maybe it is something to do with the absence of the lever to raise the guard, as given in the description.

I was afraid you (or someone) would say "turn it up on a lathe" for the depth stop. I might have to call in a favour from a friend

If its the pulley fouling it maybe that someone has moved it up the shaft a biy.

 

[hawkeyefxr]

As for the broken clamp, it could be welded with argon arc but the parts would need to be files back so leaving just a point for location purposes then the weld would need to be built up to the original size of the part. Is should be cooled gently then.

 

[MikeG.]

You must have missed some posts. The original clamp was a useless piece of junk from day one. It was a bodged after-market piece of nonsense which never worked properly. It breaking was an excellent opportunity to do something much better, and I now have a really excellent well engineered permanent solution which will not fail. The only tiny remaining issue (I'll sort it tomorrow), is a loose nut. There'll be no aluminium welding.

 

[Inspector]

Your eBay has a seller in the US that has the same kind Grizzly sell but just the two imperial threads.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Dr ... XQfvlSnPmY
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Dr ... XQfvlSnPmY

Under "Bridgeport Quill Stop Nut" there are a number of graduated nuts with threaded rod from China for about 16 to 20 pounds with free delivery.

Pete

 

[Trevanion]

I think Mike would rather spend a minute riffling through his nuts and bolts bin to find a couple of suitable nuts rather than spend £15 on a nut and another £20 to ship it :lol:

 

[Inspector]

Yah well there is always the possibility it will be useful to someone else. I could just make the nut myself since I have a metal lathe and mill. Before I did I would look for a ready made solution or a simple alternative like the rubber washer/O-ring I mentioned earlier. :wink:

Pete

 

[MikeG.]

It didn't take a minute to sort this out:

Fortunately, I have something much more interesting going on in the workshop today. More later.....