Help needed on Startrite Mercury pillar drill.

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Hi all,
I recently bought an old Startrite Mercury Mk 2 which needed a fair bit of cleaning up and re-wiring. I removed the motor which gives access to things and I can see a clamp around the main pillar which seems to support the drill head. (When I slackened the clamp, the head was able to slide down.) The ouzzling thing is, the head can swivel on the pillar while resting on the clamp, and there does not seem to be any means of keeping it still. I could drill a hole in the frame and pillar, and insert a locking pin, but I was wondering if anyone knows what should be happening here.

Thanks,

K
 
The collar is a safety device when moving the head. Move the collar down, clamp then move the head down; it stops the head crashing down too far if you let go of it. From memory there should be a lever sticking out of the head body in front of the pillar which activates the clamp - usually with a black or red plastic ball on.

You can lift and lower the head by putting a wooden block between the table and the drill chuck and use the quill handle to raise and lower.
 
There are two chocks, pulled together with a threaded screw. It sounds like it’s missing from your drill. I’ve highlighted the bits in yellow.
IMG_1679.jpeg
 
There are two chocks...

If the OP wanted to find examples of this mechanical device, we might give him the term 'split cotter' to assist.

It should be noted that the cotter is much easier to make as one piece and then split at the very end.

Purists would form the 'divot' in the centre as a radius, equal to the radius of the drill's pillar, but a straight chamfer will work equally well in most situations.
 
@ChaiLatte They arnt cotter pins, they are two steel round blocks, one with a clearance hole the other with a threaded centre. Each a 45 degree cut to the centre. The chamfers are pulled by the threaded handle together around the column locking the drilling head. Really easy to make with a drill, hacksaw and a M8 tap. Just need to buy some round bar stock if the right diameter.
 
They arn't cotter pins...

Kindly highlight anywhere in my post above where the word "pins" was used.

It is true that 'cotter pin' is used as an alternative term to 'split pin' but word order and word omission matters.

The correct engineering term is 'split cotter'. 'Cotter' is used in the same sense as the tapered pin that stops the crank arms falling off your bicycle.
 
Kindly highlight anywhere in my post above where the word "pins" was used.

It is true that 'cotter pin' is used as an alternative term to 'split pin' but word order and word omission matters.

The correct engineering term is 'split cotter'. 'Cotter' is used in the same sense as the tapered pin that stops the crank arms falling off your bicycle.
My bad, I’m sat down truly corrected and apologise. You’re absolutely correct.
 
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