Has anyone made one of these?

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Self explanatory really.
could be useful for making box sides with mitred corners although Im not sure about the depth of cut/ thickness of material. It could be fiddley setting the fence to cut exactly to a fine edge....maybe Im over thinking a decent jig?
 
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It could be fiddly setting the fence to cut exactly to a fine edge.

Two identical pictures and fully 50% of the picture is black. It would be kinder to your viewers not to duplicate and to crop before uploading.

With a 45 degree cutter, I think you could achieve the sharp edge by controlling the height the cutter projects from the table surface. You might have finer adjustment on that than on a fence and with a 45 degree cut it is a 1:1 relationship - 1mm gain in height will cut 1mm greater in width.

With the bearing-guided cutter shown, you have limited fence adjustment anyway - it can never go back further than the face of the bearing.
 
I'm really unclear why you'd build a complex jig to hold long boards vertically on a router?
If you want a 45o angle, use a table saw, or a vice and plane, or a mitre saw, or a tenon saw and 45o block to align.
Is this an instance of "if your only tool is a hammer, everything looks like a nail"?
 
I'm really unclear why you'd build a complex jig to hold long boards vertically

Please point out the long board you see in the photograph or read about in the text.

I do not think the OP is asking for views on the utility of the jig or alternative methods, rather there is a specific question on how depth/width of cut might be controlled on such an item.
 
I can't understand why you would do that vertically, why not just push it through inside face down on the table? If backed by a square board it's a very accurate way of joining a box. This jig however seems unnecessary.

Matt
 
I'm with Matt above. The jig as I see it will do the job and will hold pieces vertically securely. It might come in handy for various other operations like T&G's and I suppose you could use it on a bench saw too. But, I think it's an over-thought method of mitring an end when as Matt said, a backboard will give you the same result with the added benefit of no break-out.
 

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