hard bit when drilling mild steel

[CHJ]

..... When I find a vfd it will make this a lot more usefull.

I assume it is 3Phase then, a VFD will be of little use if it is single phase.

 

[wallace]

Hi the speed is 2800rpm, and 3 phase wadkin did make some of these with different speeds to order. Wizard this is not an overhead router it is a drill or the correct name is a borer. I cant find the link to the original catalogue. But I don't see why it couldn't be used as a router especially if it ran through a vfd so the speed could be cranked up beyond the 2800. Pete I was wanting to make one as similar to the original one as possible. This machine is one I restored a few years ago heres a link to the thread if your interested.
wadkin-pillar-drill-resto-t56790.html?hilit=wadkin pillar drill&start=45

Chas just by shear lack of knowledge I thought you could put a vfd on a single phase motor. I wanted to change the speed on the feed of an old planer thicknesser and guess what it worked. Mr nine fingers was alittle bemused by my re writing the laws of physics or the laws of stupidity. :shock:

 

[flh801978]

Just out of interest how did you connect a vfd to a single phase motor?
the 3 output wires how did you connect these?

and is it still running?

 

[wizard]

you are right it as a borer and there is no way you will drill metal with that.
this is a drill

 

[wallace]

Wizard, now that is a big boys drill what make is it. I likes it. I think the LM borer maybe designed for non ferrous metals?
Heres how I connected the vfd

 

[wizard]

its a Meddings A10 articulated head pillar drill

 

[CHJ]

Although I can't see the actual connections well enough to draw out the circuit diagram of what you have done, I suspect you achieved a form of 3ph drive by utilising the start winding as a pseudo third phase.

I would not expect this to give you maximum torque but many lower budget 1 ph motors use a permanent start/run phase shifted winding connection to provide additional torque.

Only concern I would have for anyone trying this would be the ability of the motor windings to carry the full blown current supplied by the VFD on the start winding. Maybe something old school motors may be able to absorb better than a pared to the bone hot running far eastern produced item.

 

[wallace]

I think the motor is one those cheapy Clarke ones 1.5hp I did try a very nice little 0.5 hp old motor but it never had the balls to use on the feed. I also had a 6hp old beast but I thought that was a bit much. It works pretty well, I have just been thicknessing some 16" jointed oak boards.
Mark

 

[graduate_owner]

Hi Wallace,
You could save yourself a lot of work in drilling and filing if you could find someone locally with a milling machine. It's no good asking me because I'm hundreds of miles from Durham but it's the sort of job my milling machine would do easily and neatly. Why don't you ask around in this forum - there is after all a metalwork section?

K

 

[wallace]

I think half the fun is trying to do stuff yourself . So I've tried and failed . So does anyone fancy making me a tool holder if I provide all the measurements. How about you K? I don't mind paying for postage and any expenses incurred.

 

[graduate_owner]

PM sent

K

 

[woodfarmer]

Thanks I thought I was pushing my luck, that's why I was going up gradually. So is the lump of steel I have no use to work with without better quality bits. I think I'll try with a new bit of steel, Whats good as a coolant for drilling

Going up gradually is not good practice. there is not enough mass in the swarf to cool the drill. plus it can attempt to screw into the hole. ie the drill tries to behave like a self tapping screw.

If you can, heat the steel in a bbq, and when nice and hot embed it in the coals then cover the lot with enough dry sand to starve it of air. Wait 2-3 days for it to cool. by then it may well have annealed.

You really need MUCH slower drill speed.

SORRY CFJ, DID NOT SEE YOUR POST BEFORE I HAD POSTED.