Hanging doors in crazy door casings

[Maxo1998]

Hi everyone, I’d like to replace these old doors with new, but the existing door casings are way out of square and level.

The header appears to be about 7mm out of level across 60cm, and the top middle and bottom width measurements are 764, 760 & 770mm respectively.

I don’t see how a 762mm door will fit nicely in this frame, as 770mm gap at the bottom will seem to leave too great a gap.

Replacing the entire casing may not be straightforward due to the transom window, so does anyone have any advice on how to proceed? Thanks in advance!

 

[Cabinetman]

Depends, what type of door and is it going to be painted? I think the easiest way is to add a fillet of wood to one edge of the door- probably the hinge side and then plane to fit The gap at the top can be dealt with by cutting the door to fit.
Ian

 

[JSW]

The header appears to be about 7mm out of level across 60cm, and the top middle and bottom width measurements are 764, 760 & 770mm respectively.

Your only real issue is the 770mm measurement, the rest are tolerable. What I would do is use a six foot level to see what's happening with the legs/stiles of the frame, or any decent level and a six foot straight edge, this will determine whether a) the frame is square (doubtful) and b) how to reconcile it. The best outcome is if one of the legs of the frame is relatively straight and plumb, and the other has the bow along with a 'kick' over the bottom half of the leg (760mm suddenly kicking in to 770mm) If that's the case take the architrave off and pack out the leg to suit.

Don't bother trying to offer a square up to the frame, just find out how straight & level the legs are.

 

[Bingy man]

Similar to the above posts- a straight edge offered to both (legs) will show you where the issue ( s) are . They will likely be nailed into wooden plugs and if you are careful to cut the adjoining plaster you should be able to force the frame back out if it’s concave . If convex it’s a little more difficult but not impossible. I’d not worry to much about the head of the frame as imo 7mm is small and if you trim the top of the door to suit with this 7 mm in mind you most likely won’t notice it . Then trim the bottom of the door if required. Hopefully the frame isn’t twisted . I often find it’s a balance between straightening the frame as best as possible and then again as above planing the door to suit ..good luck
Edit Welcome to ukw

 

[Maxo1998]

Thank you everyone for the advice, I’ll get a level on it tomorrow. Architraves are already off, I’ll have to see about how to get some wedges in there to pack it out

 

[Bingy man]

Wooden wedges hammered In until frame is true ( best endeavours) wedge frame from both sides at even intervals. A little expanding foam will get into any voids and help support the frame. You might get a couple of 3” or 4” screws and drill through the frame into the brickwork ( if decent) and screw and plug it for additional support/ strength to keep the frame in its new position..

 

[Jake]

If the frame is wonky the building is probably wonky, and nothing looks worse than the work of 'Mr Must Be Level To The Bubble Man' in not level surroundings.