handle repair on old cleaver?

[disco_monkey79]

Like a spanner, I forgot to take a pic, but will try to remember tonight...

In the meantime... I have an old cleaver, given to me by my grandfather, so it has some sentimental value. The handle is split, and I'd like to replace it but have no idea how to go about it.

The existing handle has been slid on to the tang, with the end of the tang then beaten so it forms a rivet. This is the bit that stumps me. Do I need to find a smithie who'll heat the tang, and beat it flat again? Or is there a way around this?

I can;t simply make a handle in two parts and glue it around the tang, as the top of the handle is sheathed in a metal "cup", that I think would make it impossible.

Anyone ever attempted repair on something like this? Will try to get a pic up asap, to better illustrate the problem.

Many thanks

 

[AndyT]

I've never done a repair like that, but I was talking recently to a collector of such tools, and he described how he had heated the tang, beaten it out, fitted a new handle, then hammered the end flat. So yes, that's what you need to do, and yes, it can be done.

You could of course glue the split handle and bind it round with string, like a 'Lancashire Pattern' potato peeler; or glue and reinforce with loops of wire fitting into shallow grooves sawn around the handle.

 

[bugbear]

Like a spanner, I forgot to take a pic, but will try to remember tonight...

In the meantime... I have an old cleaver, given to me by my grandfather, so it has some sentimental value. The handle is split, and I'd like to replace it but have no idea how to go about it.

The existing handle has been slid on to the tang, with the end of the tang then beaten so it forms a rivet. This is the bit that stumps me. Do I need to find a smithine who'll heat the tang, and beat it flat again? Or is there a way around this?

I can;t simply make a handle in two parts and glue it around the tang, as the top of the handle is sheathed in a metal "cup", that I think would make it impossible.

Anyone ever attempted repair on something like this? Will try to get a pic up asap, to better illustrate the problem.

Many thanks

That's odd.

That's a really good description of the way a billhook is normally handled; all the (butcher's) cleavers I've seen have scale handles, riveted on.

A photo would clarify things.

BugBear

BugBear

 

[TobyC]

I've never re-handled a cleaver, but I have done a couple of drawknives. Just heat it, but don't quench it, let it cool on it's own, and only heat the tip that you need to flatten or peen.

Toby

 

[disco_monkey79]

Thanks all. Will start looking out for a blowtorch (I assume that would suffice?). Reckon this is a good excuse to get an anvil, too!

Will get a pic up. Bugbear - I'm not sure who this cleaver was intended for. It's crtainly seen some use over its life (which is part of its charm - the blade curves where it's worn over time), and the back of the blade appears to have been impacted, possibly in cleaving timber?

Thanks again

 

[disco_monkey79]

Pic of the cleaver (apologies for photo quality). Any idea what it was originally meant for? I use it for lopping branches in the garden, and splitting timber.

Thanks

p.s. for scale, it's sitting on an A4 sketchpad

 

[marcros]

does the back of the blade look like it has been struck in use?

If not, I would hazard a guess at something like a beet knife.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

............a good excuse to get an anvil? Have you seen the price of anvils?

 

[disco_monkey79]

@ Marcros - yes, it looks like the back has been walloped to help drive it through

@ Phil - no, but I'd be after a 2nd-hand one. They dear, then?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

look for anvils on evilbay (not that you can afford to transport them!)

 

[bugbear]

That's a "stick chopper", a domestic tool used for making kindling.

http://www.woodlandcraftsupplies.co.uk/ ... cts_id=132

BugBear

 

[Richard T]

If you get it to a good working temperature, I should think it could be easily drawn out on the face of a lump hammer held in a vice. Turn it 90degrees between blows so as not to flatten it too much in one plane and draw back to a square point, but not a sharp point, as blunt as it can be while making sure the washer will fit easily over it to tight up against the back of the handle when back in place, though not too loose to give the peining nothing to grab.
When all is back in place - holding the blade tightly in a good vice should be enough - start to gently upset the point dead straight to the tang with the flat of a 1lb hammer. Try to keep it even all the way round until there is enough surface to start to use the ball pein, although it might be best to do the whole thing with the 'flat' which should actually be slightly convex.

 

[disco_monkey79]

Cool, thanks all. Will have a go once my bench is built (which are the plans that the cleaver is sitting on in that photo...)

 

[jimi43]

I chickened out and poured Titebond III in the crack on my billhook and then clamped it up.

Bit of wax and it's good as new.

Jim