Paddy Roxburgh
Established Member
I use digital calipers all the time. Measuring thickness of wood and metal , depths of holes, sizes of drill bits, sizes of nuts and bolts, the list of uses is endless, I always have two pairs, one in the drawer one on my person. Very rarely do I need the accuracy they claim to have and I 1/10th of a mm is usually sufficient. I could live without them but I would miss them sorely. They are simply the easiest and most reliable tool for so many tasks One thing I don't use them for is measuring shavings.
While I have read lots of conversations about how thin a shaving peoples planes can take, very rarely is it discussed how thick a shaving they can take. I dimension timber with a PT, but very often require pieces that are wedge shaped or have bevels, often to scribed lines that are not straight. I could tilt my bandsaw bed but still would have difficulty making pieces where the bevel angle changes across the piece. I find a coarse jack and a block plain to be the most reliable tools for these tasks. On or under my bench I generally have a radiused coarse no5 (for shaping), a straight ironed no. 5 (for truing straight edges), a medium slighty radiused no4 (for endgrain, arris removal and easy going smoothing) and a fine set, slightly radiused no 41/2 with a very close set cap iron (thanks DW), and on the boat I'm working on a block plane. I would give up my smoothers before my jack and block any day (luckily it's not a choice I need to make). Personally I would be more than happy with a finish off a random orbital sander, but for shaping I need planes, or at least would be irritated by the hoops I would have to jump through with machines.
While I have read lots of conversations about how thin a shaving peoples planes can take, very rarely is it discussed how thick a shaving they can take. I dimension timber with a PT, but very often require pieces that are wedge shaped or have bevels, often to scribed lines that are not straight. I could tilt my bandsaw bed but still would have difficulty making pieces where the bevel angle changes across the piece. I find a coarse jack and a block plain to be the most reliable tools for these tasks. On or under my bench I generally have a radiused coarse no5 (for shaping), a straight ironed no. 5 (for truing straight edges), a medium slighty radiused no4 (for endgrain, arris removal and easy going smoothing) and a fine set, slightly radiused no 41/2 with a very close set cap iron (thanks DW), and on the boat I'm working on a block plane. I would give up my smoothers before my jack and block any day (luckily it's not a choice I need to make). Personally I would be more than happy with a finish off a random orbital sander, but for shaping I need planes, or at least would be irritated by the hoops I would have to jump through with machines.