Hand Operated Pillar Drill

[The_Haxby_Hermit]

Hi folks, newbie here. I’m in the process of setting up a home workshop (unplugged) and busy sourcing vintage hand tools. I’ve managed to bag this drill, which seems a steal, apart from one thing; I can’t seem to figure out whether there is a mechanism for feeding the bit into the workpiece as I crank (other than just lowering it on the pillar). Perhaps I’m being a bit dense. Any experts out there? I think it’s a Metabo and is stamped 445/1

 

[AndyT]

Have you got it in your possession and had a go with it?
Manually unclamping at the pillar and lowering the head would be totally impractical, guaranteeing a pile of broken bits, so there must be something, though I would expect to see some bare thread sticking up somewhere.
On mine, as on quite a few, spinning the drill round spins the flwheel on top. That runs the feed down on a threaded rod, but acts through a simple slip clutch so it only presses down as fast as the drill bit descends.

What's the sticky out knob at the top left? Could it be something to lock it up, which needs to be pulled, pushed or twisted?

 

[The_Haxby_Hermit]

Thanks Andy. I thought that was the case, although clearly something is wrong. The knob on the left is a screw, which seems to have the effect of locking the top spinning wheel. I think there must be a gear issue so I guess I need to strip it down completely to investigate

 

[marcros]

does the top spin when you turn the handle?

 

[Boringgeoff]

I think the side screw is a friction tensioner which gives more or less drive to the raise/lower function depending on how tight you have it. Haven't got one in front of me but I think the threaded rod that raises/lowers rides inside a tube which the friction pad contacts.
My interest in this friction mechanism is because I think it is related to a patent taken out in America in 1896 by Walter Fifield though I could well be wrong about it. https://patentimages.storage.googleapis ... 555442.pdf
I will be interested to see some photos when you pull it apart.
Cheers,
Geoff.

 

[The_Haxby_Hermit]

Thanks for the link Geoff. I’ll have a go at stripping it down later in the week (Chief of Staff has directed decorating ops this week). I have a feeling that the answer lies somewhere in that central friction feed column, as everything else is working (e.g. the flywheel and chuck both turn when the handle is cranked)a

 

[Bod]

As you turn the handle, the chuck revolves, and lowers, until the drill bit touches the work piece, at which point the disc revolves, creating an "Auto-feed" effect, dependant on the resistance of the drill to cutting.
When the hole has been made, turn the handle in reverse, the chuck will rise out of the work piece.
The knob on the side is an adjuster for the auto-feed pressure, but in my experience has little effect.
Like most other bench drills the coarse adjustment is by raising or lowering the main head.
Useful, if small bit of kit. Mine is mounted on a large block of wood, which is held in the bench vice, when used.

Bod
PS. this type of drill is not belt driven, as is often thought.

 

[The_Haxby_Hermit]

Everything in your description is fine Bod, except the chuck does not lower. That’s what I need to investigate

 

[Bod]

Having just been and looked at mine, I expect, the disc revolves at the same speed as the chuck.
If this is the case, then the auto feed screw is seized inside the disc. Why, I don't know, never had one apart!
Your photo seems to show the slotted screw at the top of the disc, being higher than expected.
Generally screws in this position on hand operated drills, should be firm to the chuck, but the wheel moves freely, on the thread.
With this one, the screw should rotate with the chuck, the disc, should allow the screw to pass down through.
Check to make sure there are no washers to prevent this.
Let us know what you find.
It might just need a bit of oil!

Bod

 

[Stanleymonkey]

That's a lovely drill. Will cut through metal (slowly) and turn forstner bits up to 25mm in diameter.

There's a self feeding part ( I think it's refered to as a quill) If it all freed up and turning then have a go at drilling something and you might just find that the auto advance kicks in if it is working well. None of the screws you see are involved on a day to day basis for controlling the stop/start of the feed.

If it really is being stubborn - try turning the crank handle and holding the flywheel. That often frees it.

Stating the obvious - but... I have replaced the pillar in one of mine to gain a bit more clearance height. Large drill bit and work held in vice often leaves only a little bit of wriggle room.

 

[Stanleymonkey]

Also - the bolt that sets the height - can wear down and become smooth and rounded. Doesn't happen too much but might be worth finding a matching imperial bolt thread so you have a spare if it should happen to you.

 

[The_Haxby_Hermit]

Folks, thanks for all your advice, particularly on the auto feed mechanism. Having attempted to strip it down, I can see that the problem lies in the fact that the slotted screw at the top of the flywheel (which shows proud on my photo) is seized tight. I guess this is the reason that the mechanism isn’t operating, despite all other parts moving freely.