Grinding plane irons square and straight?

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Mr G Rimsdale":3hy7dqyk said:
LuptonM":3hy7dqyk said:
....
The problem with my idea is how to hold it upside down and stop it moving
Some of them come with brackets so you can turn them upside down or hold them in a bench vice. If not then it's not difficult to make something up. I've got the posh Bosch which sits upside down quite easily, but has brackets too, for horizontal and vertical mounting. That Clarke looks a big bu***er maybe more than you need, but I don't know anything about it.
..
For a noobie, when it comes to buying equipment its like a jungle out there. Companies are always making u want something u'll never need
Abso bloody lutely! Don't buy anything!
At least I think I got my honing equipment right the first time
Er - except you don't need any equipment for honing (except an oil stone). We all get taken in at some point by the sales pitches!

So how do u use your hand held belt sander to grind? Do u simply hold the plane iron free hand against the belt or did u make a toolrest to help u hold it against the force of the moving belt?

When I said honing stuff I was really refering to the float glass and sandpaper -i.e the scary sharp stuff. I thought I was going to regret it being a cheap skate and not getting waterstones but I think its probably worked out better since and I don't need/ to make a leather strop + compound as u can get the 0.3 micron paper.
However the axminster basic honing guide is pretty rubbish since the chisel holder part doesn't work and I've discovered that sometimes the guide will clamp one side of the plane iron higher that the other (which is really quite bad but I just check and correct before I hone/grind).
 
LuptonM":36lxjzor said:
...
So how do u use your hand held belt sander to grind? Do u simply hold the plane iron free hand against the belt .....
Yes.
A few minutes practice at holding it just under 30º and you are off. A visual aid is handy for eyeballing angles, such as a cheapo school 30/60 set square, or make your own. But you soon don't need it.

PS I keep meaning to say - sharpening (and a good many other woodwork processes) is a bit like riding a bike; however good the kit and the detailed instructions you won't be able to do it without getting on and having a few goes - and even with a crap bike and no instructions at all, you soon get the hang of it.
 
The added complication to holding it down is that the on buttom will need to be clamped or taped. I am not sure if this is just the belts my dad bought but the belts have a ridge where obviously two ends are joined together and this would play havoc when grinding. Infact the 'ridge' plays havoc when sanding and they just tear themselves apart. I think he just buys cheap belts of ebay so maybe thats just it- forever the false economist

I guess when these issues are sorted I should be sorted for any grinding eventuallity.

Anyway I should probably say thanks to you Jacob as you've proved a great help
 
LuptonM":qy06tl1b said:
The added complication to holding it down is that the on buttom will need to be clamped or taped.
The Bosch (and others?) have a hold-on button as well as variable speeds. Thinking about it - the Bosch is worth the extra dosh for being able to sit upside down on a bench, without any brackets etc. - not to mention it's usability as a sander.
I am not sure if this is just the belts my dad bought but the belts have a ridge where obviously two ends are joined together and this would play havoc when grinding.
Not a prob with reasonable belts.
 
Sandpaper is fine for restoring the primary bevel of a plane iron that is already ground straight and near the correct angle but it will take forever if the tool is improperly ground in the first place. I've tried it- not much fun.
 
I like to use a square to draw a line less than half a mm from the existing edge of a chisel or plane iron. It gives a good visual reference to ensure the edge is square to the tool when using a grinder. For me ,a tool rest is important to get a cosistant angle of edge.

Eoin
 
Another option to me is a bench disc sander like this one http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod780479/ as there's already on in the shed. The hand held belt sander will be tricky to use since the back is not flat (will rock if pressure applied to the belt and plus I'd have to buy proper belts) and really if used should be clamped in a bench vise that I do not have.
The only problem with the disc sander is that it only tilts to 45 degrees but it should prove pretty useful for squaring blades

Anyone have any good ideas that would allow me to utilise the disc sander to grind at say 25 degrees? Just trying to find a method that will work without splashing out any extra cash if I help it as I figure once they are ground properly I shouldn't need to regrind unless I damage the blade (i.e chiping)

EDIT: I think I have a good idea in order to utilise the bench disk sander instead of the hassle of setting up the hand held belt sander. I simply set the disk sander table to 45 degrees and double sticky tape (carpet tape- pretty strong) a 20 degree wedge/tool rest on the table so I can easily grind to 25 degrees. What ya think?
 
LuptonM":3b0132ax said:
..... What ya think?
I think - switch the machine on, hold your blade against it at something less than 30º. Look at it; if it hasn't come out how you want it , do it again, possibly differently.
In other words just bl**dy do it and stop asking questions! This is not rocket science!

A lot of crazy sharpening discussion is like this. The hope is that once enough information and equipment is gathered you can just press the on button, get the right grit size to the nearest micron, etc. etc. and bobs yer uncle!
You even get discussions about the correct thickness, recommended brands, of ruler, for the so called ruler trick! Which, incidentally, is much easier without any ruler at all.
 
Sorry I made u angry but I think I've got it now.

There's more than one way to skin a cat but someways are easier
 
LuptonM":dtq616ud said:
Sorry I made u angry but I think I've got it now.

There's more than one way to skin a cat but someways are easier
Not angry - just being emphatic!
These things are all much easier than they let on, but you have to actually do them to find this out - and keep re-doing them until you get it right
 
Mr G Rimsdale":34w1m91s said:
LuptonM":34w1m91s said:
..... What ya think?
I think - switch the machine on, hold your blade against it at something less than 30º. Look at it; if it hasn't come out how you want it , do it again, possibly differently.
In other words just bl**dy do it and stop asking questions! This is not rocket science!

A lot of crazy sharpening discussion is like this. The hope is that once enough information and equipment is gathered you can just press the on button, get the right grit size to the nearest micron, etc. etc. and bobs yer uncle!
You even get discussions about the correct thickness, recommended brands, of ruler, for the so called ruler trick! Which, incidentally, is much easier without any ruler at all.

for emphasis

:D
 
Mr G Rimsdale":1snfhoos said:
Not angry - just being emphatic!
These things are all much easier than they let on, but you have to actually do them to find this out - and keep re-doing them until you get it right

Got to agree with Jacob - give it a go. If you aren't happy with it have another go. It's not like your sharpening your fingertips - i.e. don't get 1 go let alone 2! :wink:
 
Dibs-h":3tnkxo1k said:
It's not like your sharpening your fingertips...

I seem to manage that OK when honing freehand, esp on waterstones for some reason. :duno:
I don't notice I'm doing it but it's blinkin painful an hour or so later.
 
Mr G Rimsdale":265w2wsw said:
OK well I suggest doing it differently and keeping your fingers out of the way :roll:

But if knew that they were in the way then they then wouldn't be in the way would they as I'd move 'em but I don't so I don't.
With me now?


Or..



Did you mean use a Jig?






:lol:
 

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