jkljosh
Established Member
For the biggest tray I had decided to divide it up into 12 small compartments for earrings or other small items. This required a slightly different approach to the others to avoid an overly complex glue up, so I decided to make the dividers floating, rather than mortised into the tray sides.
More messing around ensued with my "finger jointing" set up on the small router table - to make the required nearly halving joints:
All of which left me with a set of tray components ready for sanding and assembly
I don't know about the rest of you, but I find this bit of a project, particularly with so many components, something of a faff - a necessary evil I know as corner cutting at this stage just leads to a disappointing need for reworking when the finish doesn't come up to standard. I get a bit anal about keeping everything in order at this stage, as once the sanding removes the corner notations it is really easy to loose track of which sides go with which sides (even though I accept that for a couple of the trays it is self evident because of the divider joints). As I was sanding, I thought I would do the whole box at the same time - particularly as I was planning on finishing the lid and insides of the box before glue up.
A word to the wise - pay attention when sanding otherwise incidents can occur..........The eagle eyed amongst you will have spotted the surface I have used for planning thin components - just 20mm chip board with some blind slats pinned to it's surface as stops that lie beneath the edge of the thin stock. I use the same set up for sanding.
The really eagle eyed will have spotted the oval pins that I used to hold the slats in place (you can see one of them close to the walnut shaving in the second image above). Carelessly I missed that one of them was slightly proud of the slat, and so when I slid the lid across the slat to put it in place to sand, you guessed it..........
#-o To say I was cross is a master piece of an understatement!! Rarely knowingly defeated by set backs, I decided to try something I had heard about - steaming scratches out - after all what was there to loose!!! One hot iron, a damp cloth and a very rapidly beating heart later.....
For those who have not tried this it is worth knowing how to do, and can remove some quite deep marks - scratches or dings due to dropping something on a work piece. Hot iron - need not be a steam one even - and a wetted t towel (I soak it and wring it out). Place wet towel over the ding/scratch - apply iron and generate steam cloud, remove and peer. Try not to be horrified by any raised grain (it wills sand out). Repeat as required until blemish appears to disappear so to speak. Not wishing to teach all you grannies how to suck eggs, but it works by the steam driving into the pores of the wood and causing them to swell as the timber takes on water (which evaporates due to the heat). Not 100 percent on really deep wounds, but certainly worth having in your arsenal, just don't leave the iron on too long, otherwise you'll be developing another technique close to pyrotechnic burning/ebonising! Why not try it on a piece of scrap, it might come in handy when you need to save something in anger?
More messing around ensued with my "finger jointing" set up on the small router table - to make the required nearly halving joints:
All of which left me with a set of tray components ready for sanding and assembly
I don't know about the rest of you, but I find this bit of a project, particularly with so many components, something of a faff - a necessary evil I know as corner cutting at this stage just leads to a disappointing need for reworking when the finish doesn't come up to standard. I get a bit anal about keeping everything in order at this stage, as once the sanding removes the corner notations it is really easy to loose track of which sides go with which sides (even though I accept that for a couple of the trays it is self evident because of the divider joints). As I was sanding, I thought I would do the whole box at the same time - particularly as I was planning on finishing the lid and insides of the box before glue up.
A word to the wise - pay attention when sanding otherwise incidents can occur..........The eagle eyed amongst you will have spotted the surface I have used for planning thin components - just 20mm chip board with some blind slats pinned to it's surface as stops that lie beneath the edge of the thin stock. I use the same set up for sanding.
The really eagle eyed will have spotted the oval pins that I used to hold the slats in place (you can see one of them close to the walnut shaving in the second image above). Carelessly I missed that one of them was slightly proud of the slat, and so when I slid the lid across the slat to put it in place to sand, you guessed it..........
#-o To say I was cross is a master piece of an understatement!! Rarely knowingly defeated by set backs, I decided to try something I had heard about - steaming scratches out - after all what was there to loose!!! One hot iron, a damp cloth and a very rapidly beating heart later.....
For those who have not tried this it is worth knowing how to do, and can remove some quite deep marks - scratches or dings due to dropping something on a work piece. Hot iron - need not be a steam one even - and a wetted t towel (I soak it and wring it out). Place wet towel over the ding/scratch - apply iron and generate steam cloud, remove and peer. Try not to be horrified by any raised grain (it wills sand out). Repeat as required until blemish appears to disappear so to speak. Not wishing to teach all you grannies how to suck eggs, but it works by the steam driving into the pores of the wood and causing them to swell as the timber takes on water (which evaporates due to the heat). Not 100 percent on really deep wounds, but certainly worth having in your arsenal, just don't leave the iron on too long, otherwise you'll be developing another technique close to pyrotechnic burning/ebonising! Why not try it on a piece of scrap, it might come in handy when you need to save something in anger?