Glueing Teak

[beech1948]

I have just bought a teak 6ft table and 8 chairs. All are assembled but the base for the table requires me to dowel and glue four legs to the top and base.

I know Teak is oily so will use some acetone to clear off oily stuff prior to glueing.

BUT what gluew to use...for teak, outdoors and water resistant, UV resistant etc etc. I have even been considering some epoxy. Advice please, what have you done in similar circumstances .

alan

 

[johnelliott]

Got to be polyurethane. See other threads mentioning this marvellous stuff. Beofre PU came out I would have said Aerolite 306

John

 

[superunknown]

I would go with polyurethane glue too \/

 

[Pecker]

Yep, give the teak a good clean first then PU it.
Pecker

 

[Evergreen]

In a "Best of FWW basic skills and techniques" published in February 2006, a chap called Chris Minick carried out various tests on gluing oily woods. He found that trying to degrease the surface with a solvent did not improve the strength of the bond at all. He then went on to recommend using epoxy for oily woods.

I followed his advice and used Araldite on a very small job involving two small pieces of teak where looks were not important. Well, the bond seems strong enough but Araldite squeeze-out is pretty messy. I wouldn't recommend it myself if you want a good looking effect and if other forum members can come up with something better.

Regards.

 

[Scott]

In a "Best of FWW basic skills and techniques" published in February 2006, a chap called Chris Minick carried out various tests on gluing oily woods. He found that trying to degrease the surface with a solvent did not improve the strength of the bond at all. He then went on to recommend using epoxy for oily woods.

Didn't he also say that a wee rub with sandpaper immediately beforehand freshens up the surface sufficiently for glueing? ... or did I read that somewhere else?

Cheers

 

[Colin C]

I followed his advice and used Araldite on a very small job involving two small pieces of teak where looks were not important. Well, the bond seems strong enough but Araldite squeeze-out is pretty messy. I wouldn't recommend it myself if you want a good looking effect and if other forum members can come up with something better.

Regards.

There is a way a round the messy Araldite problem

First put some masking tape along the joint so that if it the does come out most of it will be on that.
Then you can clean up the rest with some meths, the meths will get off what might be left if ti missis the masking tape :wink:

 

[Pecker]

Following on from that tip. If you want to say cramp a joint that has been glued with PU, and are worried about it sticking to another surface - it doesn't stick to clingfilm! Just lay a bit of cling film under/around it and hey presto!

mark

 

[Nigel]

I have been using Teak a lot over the last few years and have found PU (Gorilla) great for outside and PVA (Evostik) for inside

Also cleaning first did not seem to make any difference, so far no joints have failed

Thats from a novice

Nigel

 

[Evergreen]

Scott

I've re-read the article in FWW. The lightly sanded joint was stronger than the solvent-wiped joint for PVA glue but it's not clear whether he sanded before using epoxy. I've assumed that he did.

Regards.

 

[beech1948]

Thanks guys,

Gorilla it then....unless I've got some left over epoxy from last weeks job.

Sand before glueing to freshen up the wood surface, don't bother with solvent style wipe off of teak. I'll giove it a try next wednesday and let you know what happens if different than expected.

regards

alan

 

[woodbloke]

I've had no problems gluing teak - I use a D3 waterproof PVA and lightly scuff the joint surfaces with some fine glasspaper just before the glue is applied - coat both surfaces and use reasonable cramping pressure - Rob