Glue for Castings

[Keith 66]

Araldite will work providing the joint is grease free. Use the original stuff that takes 24 hours to cure not the 5 minute version.
30 years ago i dropped a cast iron Record rebate plane of the deck of a boat i was working on. It landed on its handle & shattered it. I stuck it back together with Araldite, looks dreadful but its still going strong!

 

[AES]

+1 for the old, original, Araldite (the 24 hour stuff). BUT, the keys to success are:

1. ABSOLUTE cleanliness to de-grease (e.g. acetone);

2. Make up a "jig" (wooden? ply? sheet metal? - NOT just bound around with gaffer tape or something!) to be sure that the 2 parts are held in complete contact over the full break area, and are fully aligned to allow the full 24 hours setting period, if not a bit longer (for luck). Or, you can also leave it in the oven (if domestic authorities allow) on a low "background" heat (60-80 deg C max) for about 12 hours, NO less. BUT take good care that you have greaseproof paper or similar underneath to catch any run off drips otherwise said domestic authorities will never allow you near the oven again (and ovens are useful bits of kit for repairers and bodgers like me)!

But above all, make sure those crystalline areas on both break surfaces, and the near surrounds, are all absolutely clean before you start and I'd bet beer tokens (a couple anyway) that it WILL work.

Also I repeat, NOT the "modern" 5 min epoxies of any brand - it MUST be the original 24 hour Araldite.

AES

 

[Rhyolith]

Thanks for the input.

I decided to try something I think is similar to the Araldite stuff (closest thing my local store had), went for the slow setting version as suggested (its easier to get the positioning right as well as anything!).

Glued it up a few days ago. I had kept the brake clean (intentionally) so went straight on and found a way to squish it nicely in a big vice that lined it up as it should be, did it up nice an tight and left for 24 hours in the vice. The result seems good so far, though its yet to subject to a drilling test:

Millers Falls No.4D by Rhyolith, on Flickr

 

[AES]

Looks good Rhyolith, hope it withstands the working test.

I'm somewhat disturbed that you did NOT de-grease (breaks are NEVER as clean as one thinks, no matter how careful one is), but fingers crossed anyway.

The only reason I specified actual Araldite 24 hour is because it's the only "slow set" epoxy I've ever used. But as said, looks good. BTW, if there's any squeeze out (can't see any) you can gently file it smooth with smooth file, and even re-paint afterwards if desired.

AES

 

[AndyT]

If it's not strong enough to actually use, I guess you're going to have to buy another drill as well!

 

[wallace]

I bought a very rare wadkin planer setting tool a few years ago and it came to me broken because of crappy packaging. I used a two part metal apoxy. Because it was cast iron the break was clean with no distortion. Still solid after 3 years, it doesn't receive any stress or force which would be my concern with yours.