Glass rebates cut after jointing?

[Mcluma]

It's not the router that's the issue - it's the bad detailing. You can do proper detailing with a router too and it's not going to take much longer, if anything.
If it's about economy then I'd highly recommend butt joints and skew nails.

If its a box rebate, to just take the glass, and you chissel out the corners, i cannot see what is wrong about that, it is probably better then first the M&T, rebate, then fit, as there is no room for error

if you do the rebate first, you still have to use a chissel to make it square, so where is the difference - Please explain

 

[Jacob]

It's the cross grain bit in the corner. It's likely to drop out eventually.
But anyway it's a basic bit of good practice to make lines run through - it looks better and is usually going to be stronger. Masons mitres are for stone masons, though they are found in early woodwork too.
Don't let this put anybody off bodging things in anyway they choose, but in case they want to know - there are proper ways, which usually are also better ways, of doing things.

 

[Mcluma]

It's the cross grain bit in the corner. It's likely to drop out eventually.
But anyway it's a basic bit of good practice to make lines run through - it looks better and is usually going to be stronger. Masons mitres are for stone masons, though they are found in early woodwork too.
Don't let this put anybody off bodging things in anyway they choose, but in case they want to know - there are proper ways, which usually are also better ways, of doing things.

jacob

With all due respect, but which cross grain are you referring too? I have lost me!

Chris

 

[Jacob]

sorry, off out, I'll explain later if nobody else has in the meantime. Have a look at Mason's mitres.

 

[yetloh]

Rob,

I understand what you are saying; it is much quicker and therefore cheaper, it will last just as long and the vast majority of people will never know the difference. But, for me, it is not the finest work and that end grain would always offend me. It is hard to see the Barnsley Workshop or Martin Grierson adopting this approach. I know they are not trying to earn a living in the "normal" commercial world but neither am I; I am not trying to earn anything from my furniture making, I am doing it for personal satisfaction, as do many others.

At a practical level, not all of us have Domino machines and running all the stock through the router and then making stepped tenons with a well set up bandsaw is not that time consuming.

Jim

 

[Chems]

With all due respect, but which cross grain are you referring too? I have lost me!

If this picture makes any sense, the blue bit.

The argument holds no water anyhow, it will never be seen as it will be filled by whatevers in the rebate. If I was making the perfect piece and had all the time I could want I wouldn't do it by running the router around either but just for a pure hobbisty pursuit of perfection. But for anyone doing this for commercial reasons there is 0 benefit or reason in my mind, which I think 99% of us agree on.

 

[p111dom]

I'm with Chems on this. I can't see the rational about doing it the "correct" way. I could understand the comments if you were making a frame with an ogee moulding on the inside of the frame as there would be an end grain section showing on the front of the frame at the corners. However, unless you're making a country pine kitchen, surely that look went out a decade ago in favour of a more plain, shaker style with straight square sections for the frame. In which case there would be so end grain on show in either method. I understand what a masons mitre is but surely to achieve this, you need a moulding of some sort which I didn't see the original poster mention. I took it that he wanted to add a glazed panel after the frames were glues together which would be a rebate to the rear of the frame where I would want to add a beading so the glass could be replaced in case of brakeages. As Chems said, any end grain issues would be covered by the panel/glass or covered by the beading used to hold the glass in place. I just don't get it???

 

[Erasmus]

Should be rebated before jointing or you end up with a really naff detail with part of the "web" (never sure what to call it) being cross grained - revealing to the world that you have cheated by using a router. Also you'll have to pick out the corners by hand with a chisel.
It's actually easier to do it properly.

Totally agree. I cringe whenever I see someone cutting the rebates post assembly, makes my cabinet makers soul bleed.

 

[RogerS]

I'm with Jacob on this one...