Garden Light Designs

[woodspiral]

Hi,

Went online to look for mains-powered oak post/bollard lights for the garden and got a massive sticker shock from the prices, e.g:
https://www.moonlightdesign.co.uk/o...-single-led-bollard-low-voltage-p12364/s53811

I guess a good chunk of that is for the IP44 lighting unit itself, but given a decent design, I reckon I could make them OK.

The woodworking side of it seems fine to me, but I'm not clear where the wire would be recessed and connect to the lighting cavity. Drill a very long hole? Perhaps a section is routed out of the back to give access which is then filled by a new oak piece glued back in?

Anyone got any experience of making these kind of lights? I looked on YT but couldn't see anything obvious.

Cheers
Woodspiral

 

[HOJ]

I looked into making these a few years ago, interestingly they never show pictures from the back, however I did find an alternative maker, and a rear view:



I have in the past drilled Newel posts for light switches on landings which was far from easy. so the above method, pictured, would be the way I would make a post light, I have a router bit for cutting the channels for MPL's in doors which would be an ideal way as it would leave a lip on the groove for a thin S/steel plate to be fixed to, and buy in a prewired, suitable fitting.

 

[Cabinetman]

I didn’t make these but came across them at a clients house, the wiring travels up the hollow interior and the light unit is protected from the weather from above. Theses were quite large and heavy but I’m sure the design could be altered to something more practical. Maybe with a Lead shroud/roof? Or a roofing slate, I used this method on a notice board, slates held on and sealed around with black CT1.
Ian

 

[woodspiral]

I looked into making these a few years ago, interestingly they never show pictures from the back, however I did find an alternative maker, and a rear view:

View attachment 195442 View attachment 195443

I have in the past drilled Newel posts for light switches on landings which was far from easy. so the above method, pictured, would be the way I would make a post light, I have a router bit for cutting the channels for MPL's in doors which would be an ideal way as it would leave a lip on the groove for a thin S/steel plate to be fixed to, and buy in a prewired, suitable fitting.

Awesome HOJ, thank you. What kind of router bit is that? I had a quick look but couldn't see anything. I would need to source some metal strips and drill them, but that's maybe more robust than glueing in a new piece of oak into a channel. Next time I walk past some of these lights somewhere I'm going to take a careful look!
Cheers
Woods

 

[woodspiral]

I didn’t make these but came across them at a clients house, the wiring travels up the hollow interior and the light unit is protected from the weather from above. Theses were quite large and heavy but I’m sure the design could be altered to something more practical. Maybe with a Lead shroud/roof? Or a roofing slate, I used this method on a notice board, slates held on and sealed around with black CT1.
Ian
View attachment 195488

Thank you, Cabinet Man. I'm looking for inspiration here so that looks like an interesting proposition. Obviously that kind of open design makes the wiring a lot easier. Got me thinking. Whether that particular design would pass muster with the home office, I'm not sure!! I could get quite creative and produce something quite unique...

 

[Sideways]

I looked into making these a few years ago, interestingly they never show pictures from the back, however I did find an alternative maker, and a rear view:

View attachment 195442 View attachment 195443

I have in the past drilled Newel posts for light switches on landings which was far from easy. so the above method, pictured, would be the way I would make a post light, I have a router bit for cutting the channels for MPL's in doors which would be an ideal way as it would leave a lip on the groove for a thin S/steel plate to be fixed to, and buy in a prewired, suitable fitting.

This could be made by simply ripping the rear inch off the post, routing a small groove up the inside for the wire and an exit hole, planing the sawn faces smooth then glueing the post back together. With a good glue, the result might be better as well as neater than using a metal cover strip.

 

[Hypnotic Chimera]

If it were me making them I'd be using contrasting wood, to make an eye pleasing stripe, just like Fender do on the back of their guitar necks ("skunk stripe"). I'd far prefer that instead of a metal strip.

 

[Cabinetman]

An alternative would be to use galvanised tube and fittings- flanges from elec? Or is it plumbing stuff?

 

[woodspiral]

This could be made by simply ripping the rear inch off the post, routing a small groove up the inside for the wire and an exit hole, planing the sawn faces smooth then glueing the post back together. With a good glue, the result might be better as well as neater than using a metal cover strip.

Awesomely simple! Why didn't I think of that?!

 

[Hypnotic Chimera]

Awesomely simple! Why didn't I think of that?!

If you're not a guitar guy then it isn't an obvious leap.
Hope the suggestion gives you inspiration.

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

Hi,

Went online to look for mains-powered oak post/bollard lights for the garden and got a massive sticker shock from the prices, e.g:
https://www.moonlightdesign.co.uk/o...-single-led-bollard-low-voltage-p12364/s53811

I guess a good chunk of that is for the IP44 lighting unit itself, but given a decent design, I reckon I could make them OK.

Just looked at the spec for the Collingwood low voltage lights as I was interested to find what voltage they ran at. Interestingly they run from a constant current source so if you have more than one they can be wired in series. Probably means that the source voltage is no more than 42VDC and automatically 'adjusts' to suit the number of lights. Cunning though obvious if you know what you're doing. Disadvantage is that if one light fails the whole lot go off. The wiring has to be bigger as it has to suit the higher current than if it were mains but I'd rather run a low voltage DC outside rather than mains. Its just food for thought.
Also I think the ouch price is paying for the Collingwood name.
Martin

 

[Fitzroy]

I wouldn't use a thin cover strip from wood due to risk of movement/splitting during the seasons. Either a metal cover strip or SideWays' idea to split in half and reglue.

 

[BucksDad]

This video is a great overview of constant current outdoors lights -

It includes the guy who owns Hudson lighting - a UK manufacturing company of outdoor lights and he goes into the detail in this video all about them (If you know the Artisan Electrics channel, it's a bit marmite, but at least there's a chapter guide to find the interesting bits)