Garage lights

[allypally49]

Can I use the on/off facility of a fuse switch connected in the consummer unit 6a , to connect the garage lights, instead of using the normal light switch

 

[Sachakins]

Not a good idea. Fuse switches are not designed for repeated switching. Light switches are.

 

[Bingy man]

Agree with @Sachakins you should only use the consumer unit to isolate the power to a particular circuit for repairs or other work .. perhaps you could provide the reason why you want to do this..

Edit. Welcome to ukw

 

[Doogs]

As others have said - not a good idea. Just put a light switch in line at a convenient location. I've just done this with an auxiliary light above one of my workbenches.

 

[Stuart Moffat]

Our village church, which doubles as a village hall is heated by 6 electric radiant heaters that have been in use for about 15 years. They are switched on from a dedicated distribution box which has an 80 amp master switch and 6 trips/switches. The total draw is not much under the 80 amps. They were installed by an electrician, and have a compulsory inspection every 4 years. None of the electricians has ever raised it as an issue, and the switch/trips have never failed.

 

[Sideways]

Our village church, which doubles as a village hall is heated by 6 electric radiant heaters that have been in use for about 15 years. They are switched on from a dedicated distribution box which has an 80 amp master switch and 6 trips/switches. The total draw is not much under the 80 amps. They were installed by an electrician, and have a compulsory inspection every 4 years. None of the electricians has ever raised it as an issue, and the switch/trips have never failed.

An MCB is a functional switch, officially, as well as an overload device.
There's nothing to take issue with in this installation as long as it's kept in good condition including that the covers are complete and secure..
You wouldn't want one in your living room but it's not uncommon to see lights switched this way in factories and commercial buildings.

For the OP, I would leave the consumer unit be and add a switch, for the practical reason that you won't be the only person to ever use it and a CU isn't where we expect to find, or can easily find, a light switch.

 

[Roland]

Is this for use as a garage, or as a workshop. If it’s the former I’d fit a motion sensor, either IR or microwave, with a timed off setting, and never have to switch the light again

 

[trvlr]

A simple on/off switch surely is best way to go? Using a sensor switch of any type invariably means the "d..." thing might trip off after whatever time and leave you in the dark or as near as; until you manage to trip it back on? A cord switch is fine and it's no great project to install a wall switch; preferably a metalclad with supply cable protected by length of conduit - at least up to the ceiling?

And if there two entrances/exits then install a standard two-way switchng cct. - again metalcald; one at each entrance exit.

There are also two-way cord switches; so one can use either system or one of each typw of switch.