FROG tuning how?

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ali27

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I am trying to tune my no4 stanley.

I can't tflatten the frog because the lateral adjuster lever(LAL)
and ''Y'' lever(YAL) make it impossible to put the frog flat on
sandpaper.

I don't know how to detach these. Anybody know how to
do this or can give me a link(with pictures)?

I have very few tools so if it is not possible with special
gear than I will just cut a 1.5cm(wide) and 5 cm long piece out
of a piece of MDF plate. This way I can flatten the frog
because the LAL and YAL will not touch the plate.

THanks in advance.

Regards,

Ali
 
You can knock out the pin for the Y lever (yoke?) easily with a pin punch or even a nail. One end is slightly smaller in diameter than the other (LH side when holding by the tote - I think) thats the end to punch from. Be a little careful as a mis-directed blow might crack the surrounding cast iron.

I've not tried to remove the lateral lever. You would need to drill out the rivet and have a new rivet for later. It's not worth the trouble IMHO.

Your suggestion of a slot in the MDF works well once the yoke is removed. The other alternative is to work diagonally either side of the adjuster (but I think the slot is better).

Cheers (and good luck), Vann.
 
Vann":kku43uge said:
You can knock out the pin for the Y lever (yoke?) easily with a pin punch or even a nail. One end is slightly smaller in diameter than the other (LH side when holding by the tote - I think) thats the end to punch from. Be a little careful as a mis-directed blow might crack the surrounding cast iron.

I've not tried to remove the lateral lever. You would need to drill out the rivet and have a new rivet for later. It's not worth the trouble IMHO.

Your suggestion of a slot in the MDF works well once the yoke is removed. The other alternative is to work diagonally either side of the adjuster (but I think the slot is better).

Cheers (and good luck), Vann.

Thanks for the response Vann.

I tried it with the slot thing. I will do more tomorrow. I did not need
to remove the ''YOKE''(I'm learning!) as it does not touch the MDF board.

Something like this:

10pzosj.jpg


I used a permament marker to colour the frog and then sanded
until all the colour was gone. I then place the blade with chipbreaker
on the frog and saw there was still some light, the blade was not sitting
perfectly on the frog.

I am thinking maybe the upper side of the blade is not flat and that's why
it isn't sitting perfectly flat on the frog.

Regards,

Ali
 
ali27":1chz806b said:
I am thinking maybe the upper side of the blade is not flat and that's why
it isn't sitting perfectly flat on the frog.

Regards,

Ali

It doesn't matter - as long as the bottom part of the blade is contacting well, the plane will work fine. I'm all in favour of plane tuning, but only where the effort/reward ratio is good.

In the Bailey design, the blade is commonly bowed out of flat by the cap-iron anyway.

Hell, Karl Holtey doesn't even aim for a planar contact between bedding and blade!

BugBear
 

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